heres the disco. just about all stock 60,000 miles with pined liners. still testing and awaiting ultraguage.

 

 

heres a liner pinning fail on my part. I trusted the permatex red lolctite and primer and did NOT use a nut to tighten against the outside wall of the block. The common stainless bolt started to see-saw on the aluminum threads after a long drive. it also is leaking oil there. the video clearly syncs the tapping noise with the liner movement. i could stop the liner from tapping instantly when i touched the bolt head with a little pressure.

so now the plan is to re-pin with a little larger bolt and tapp with the addition of a nut and lock washer. I still think i can use the permatex stuff to be certain.

good news is that i know for sure this is where my ticking is comming from. after i fix that, im styling!

 

Ok.....finally I defeated the slipping liner!
I knew it was just the liner nearest the driver slipping from the video evidence. So I added a second stainless bolt and split washer. Then I painted a couple coats of jb weld to the pin to seal it there so no leaks could happen. I even dabbed a little jbweld to the threads and let it sit. It was the longest 24hour cure ever! Filled it up with oil and Ive been driving like crazy for 2 days to try to get it to tick again. No tick and no oil leaks! I'm officially cured of the slipped liner! Phew!!!! It even drives cooler by about 10degrees all day. In hawaii sun I cruise the freeway at 185-190degrees.

Now that that issue is past for me, my next question to the forum would be about the clunk on the gears as I shift the automatic from rev to drive. There's a firm clunk that you can feel and hear sometimes as I shift. I try to be gentle, but it still clunks. It's like there's a void between gears lining up. Is that just normal? Can I pin the liners in the gearbox??????

 

Great news, any pix?

Suspect U joints in drive shafts.

 

Thanks for all the updates to your thread 5-0, its great to see issues get resolved with the solution used. As far as clunk, I have been fighting it on my 97 for a year and have it about 90% better by replacing my front drive shaft with a rebuilt one from a Defender I got from a buddy and eliminating my rotoflex with a kit to convert to a U-joint instead. its not very expensive. The biggest impovement for me came from the front drive shaft. Based on everything I have read on here, I dont know that you can get rid of the clunk completely.

 

Ok. Just got home from work. I got to ride shotgun with my wife driving the rover all day today. We burned up a mountain highway twice at about 210degrees max all day. Not a tick at all and no oil leaks at all. great feeling!
The worst part about the ride is that my wife was driving! I wanted to drive! I want to take her rover for myself!

heres some pictures from the motor:

this one shows the gunk reaching the valve springs. I think the oil might have been changed from time to time, but the bad flaky sludge came from oil additives or something. it was everywhere





That tapping noise really sounded to me like a bad lifter or rocker. After i saw the sludgy oil pan i thought for sure valve train was the ticking.



So I cleaned it all up in pieces and replaced the valve train parts for the closest piston to the driver (where i figured the ticking and tapping was coming from), put it all back together and....the tapping was still there.

so i pinned the liner as carefully as possible. I stripped a motor mount bolt hole and failed to finish all the liners before i had to get everything back together and re-tap the motor mount hole. Pin stopped the tapping, but after a few days, it was back and worse, it was leaking oil from my poor pin job



SOOOO, heres what i had to do. I double pinned the only liner that was slipping from the video evidence. heres what it looks like. its holding very well now and were driving the rover all day. the wife is extremely happy now and so am I.



the gray stuff is painted on JBWeld original. Its working great to hold and seal the pin.

Thank you all for your help with this. Its very rewarding work.

 

Hey all. I have a question about 'underheating' the 98 4.0 motor.
I replaced the original fan clutch after my wife told me she reached 228 degrees after a hard hill run. I suspected the fan clutch and bought the replacement before I pinned the liner last week. The fan clutch was a autozone replacement a few people recommended. It bolted right on with a little overboring of the 4 mount holes. Now the rover runs mostly right around 180degrees all the time with plus or minus 5 degrees. I think I hear the 180 thermostat clicking on every couple minutes!

My question is, what's the coolest my engine should run? Is this bad to run it like this? It can't be as bad as overheating right?

 

Ohh. Also wanted to ask if anyone EVER saw or tried to modify the rear cargo door glass to hinge open upwards? It would be nice to open that glass for long cargo.

 

180 degrees is perfect. After replacing just about every cooling component in my '98, including the radiator & water pump, I consistently run at 185; occasionally 192 depending on traffic. (I have a 180deg thermostat.)