'96 Land Rover Discovery won't start after battery change
#1
'96 Land Rover Discovery won't start after battery change
I looked around and found similar entries, but I don't think it is the same problem as others, I apologize in advance if i posted in the wrong place.
Situation: I left the car lights on for two days, and when I finally noticed, the battery was dead. I replaced the dead battery with a new one and my car will not start. After I changed the battery, the alarm went off, but I turned it off by using my key.
Problem: When I start up the car with usual, it is creates a cranking noise, but does not start. Everything else works, what should be the problem?
Idea: Is there any reset procedure after changing the battery?
Thanx!
Situation: I left the car lights on for two days, and when I finally noticed, the battery was dead. I replaced the dead battery with a new one and my car will not start. After I changed the battery, the alarm went off, but I turned it off by using my key.
Problem: When I start up the car with usual, it is creates a cranking noise, but does not start. Everything else works, what should be the problem?
Idea: Is there any reset procedure after changing the battery?
Thanx!
Last edited by airisgood01; 07-08-2012 at 06:26 PM.
#2
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Do you have the key fob (the remote for the alarm)?
The alarm will kill both spark and fuel but the starter would still turn the engine over, but it will not crank.
If you have the fob, try using it. I think you need to cycle it like either 3 or 5 times to clear the alarm. You can also do the same thing with the key in the drivers door with multiple lock/unlock cycles.
Do you have the RAVE downloaded. The details are in there. I recently had a similar incident with a dead battery and cycling my key in the driver's door 5 times cleared it for me. Give that a try and please post your results.
Good luck!
The alarm will kill both spark and fuel but the starter would still turn the engine over, but it will not crank.
If you have the fob, try using it. I think you need to cycle it like either 3 or 5 times to clear the alarm. You can also do the same thing with the key in the drivers door with multiple lock/unlock cycles.
Do you have the RAVE downloaded. The details are in there. I recently had a similar incident with a dead battery and cycling my key in the driver's door 5 times cleared it for me. Give that a try and please post your results.
Good luck!
#3
Here's some stuff from the RAVE about the warning light, which may show what status your alarm thinks it is in.
indicate other conditions.
When the vehicle arms in either mode, the hazard
lamps will flash up to three times when the alarm is
armed and one time when disarmed.
Theft Alarm LED
lamps will flash up to three times when the alarm is
armed and one time when disarmed.
Theft Alarm LED
Slow Flash: Immobilised or immobilised and armed
Rapid Flash: Volumetrically armed
Intermittent Rapid Flash: Perimetrically armed
No Flash for 10 Seconds: Mislock
Continuous: Driver’s door open (or ignition on)
and immobilised
NOTE: The Theft Alarm LED may also be used to
and immobilised
NOTE: The Theft Alarm LED may also be used to
indicate other conditions.
#4
Do you have the key fob (the remote for the alarm)?
The alarm will kill both spark and fuel but the starter would still turn the engine over, but it will not crank.
If you have the fob, try using it. I think you need to cycle it like either 3 or 5 times to clear the alarm. You can also do the same thing with the key in the drivers door with multiple lock/unlock cycles.
Do you have the RAVE downloaded. The details are in there. I recently had a similar incident with a dead battery and cycling my key in the driver's door 5 times cleared it for me. Give that a try and please post your results.
Good luck!
The alarm will kill both spark and fuel but the starter would still turn the engine over, but it will not crank.
If you have the fob, try using it. I think you need to cycle it like either 3 or 5 times to clear the alarm. You can also do the same thing with the key in the drivers door with multiple lock/unlock cycles.
Do you have the RAVE downloaded. The details are in there. I recently had a similar incident with a dead battery and cycling my key in the driver's door 5 times cleared it for me. Give that a try and please post your results.
Good luck!
Last edited by dragonhead; 07-08-2012 at 10:01 PM.
#5
#6
body control unit and start problems
I have a 1996 dicovery
it will drive perfect for how ever long, but if its over 30 minutes and you turn off the engine. you wont be able to turn it back on for another 30 minutes. it turns over, but the moment it does. the engine dies. the only way to keep it alive is to hit the gas a little when the it turns over, and it runs fine. the check engine light says the fuels running to fat, and that its an electrical problem.
about a year ago (i had a moron jump my car since the lights killed the battery) and he crossed wires on his side at the last minute (also my mistake for letting him help) and blew my battery. we check the majority of the fuses and all was fine and replaced the battery with a new one. the body control unit started acting up these last couple of months by having the hazards go off for hours while the bcu made a time bomb noise. (its done it twice but will randomly stop) along with the car alarm ramdomly going off when the cars already unlocked. we're thinking the bcu may be causing the start problems but need some opinions. we did pick up a used bcu thats in perfect condition but wont let the security system let the engine turn over since its not programed to the car. how would i reprogram it? the dealer ship wants me to buy a complete brand new one for $400. then to program it $150. i definitly need some help. i have done spark plugs and fuel filter since the last owner did not maintain it as well as he said along with some other main maintance things needed.
it will drive perfect for how ever long, but if its over 30 minutes and you turn off the engine. you wont be able to turn it back on for another 30 minutes. it turns over, but the moment it does. the engine dies. the only way to keep it alive is to hit the gas a little when the it turns over, and it runs fine. the check engine light says the fuels running to fat, and that its an electrical problem.
about a year ago (i had a moron jump my car since the lights killed the battery) and he crossed wires on his side at the last minute (also my mistake for letting him help) and blew my battery. we check the majority of the fuses and all was fine and replaced the battery with a new one. the body control unit started acting up these last couple of months by having the hazards go off for hours while the bcu made a time bomb noise. (its done it twice but will randomly stop) along with the car alarm ramdomly going off when the cars already unlocked. we're thinking the bcu may be causing the start problems but need some opinions. we did pick up a used bcu thats in perfect condition but wont let the security system let the engine turn over since its not programed to the car. how would i reprogram it? the dealer ship wants me to buy a complete brand new one for $400. then to program it $150. i definitly need some help. i have done spark plugs and fuel filter since the last owner did not maintain it as well as he said along with some other main maintance things needed.
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