Some codes come on right away, some others take same problem being there on multiple drive cycles.... So pull off the valve cover and have a look at valve gear for cylinder 3..... get better scanner.

 

Cracked rings will also cause smoke, that's why I requested the compression check. No engine should smoke more than a minute after start up with all the assembly lube burning off.

I have issues that come to mind off the top of my head. They are not absolutes but ideas.

Matt touched one, one or the other valves not sealing.

Cracked ring, wrong ring end gap, ring gaps not staggered.

Injector sticking either open or closed. I would think open with the low compression, fuel washing down the oil on the cylinder walls. Fuel pressure leak down would find leaking injector. These injectors are not new if I understand correctly. It's like rebuilding an engine and tossing an old carb back on.

The heads where shaved, the pushrods are factory length(?) but the rockers are not shimmed to clearance with lifters. Collapsing lifter, failed lifter, lifter holding valve open just a tad.

Oil past valve guides. Didn't see new guides added just oil seals.

 

If injector stuck open, would there be low PSI on fuel rail, or immediate bleed down of fuel rail after engine off? Could you unplug electrical wire to injector number three and test (would run rough - but would it smoke) ?

Seems like what ever the source it is not enough to be noticed after first of drive burn off, yet it pools back up after running. Open injector would place plenty of fuel in the intake, because we don't have direct injection into the cylinders.

Injectors are supervised by ECU for open circuit, it is possible to read each one for resistance to see if they have a bad coil (won't detect frozen open by trash, gunk, or just plain dead).

Could a key sensor be disconnected or bad? Fuel Temp? TPS?

Fuel temp sensor?

From RAVE:

ambient temperatures

TPS ?

the injector open time.

Injector:

appropriate spark plug being ’sooted up’.

 

Whatever is going on is affecting all cylinders because they are all completely black now. A dry sooty black, not oily.

Also, even though the smoke goes away after a while, it still runs like crap. That doesn't change. It dies very easily. Just revving it will make it die. The rpms go up, but when it comes back down it goes too low and dies.

Valve guides were done. Forgot to add that.

Checked oil again. No coolant. Checked coolant level. Doesn't appear to be going down.

Been driving around more and still no codes.

In addition to cleaning the MAF today I checked all vacuum hoses, connectors, etc. I cleaned gunk out of the stepper motor area, and found that the oil separator was completely clogged. Cleaned that too. None of it made a damn difference.

The only thing that seems to make any difference is removing one of the breathers and allowing the plenum vacuum to suck air. This raises the engine rpm a bit and keeps it from dying as easily. Still smokes though.

I'm hoping it's just a bad sensor somewhere, but without codes I can't tell. Damn thing ran better before the rebuild...

 

Tps??? Check Engine Light burned out - does it self test at startup? You waiting for it to come one to read codes?

 

Check engine light burned out. Checked at lunch and this evening for codes.

Looking at TPS trying to figure out if it's good. Resistance varies as I turn it from millions down to about 60 ohms. Tried plugging TPS in but not connected to throttle. Started ok. I could rev it up by either pushing the throttle linkage (because it's already running rich?) or turning the TPS with a screwdriver.

After I reconnected the TPS to the throttle and started it, it instantly shot up to around 2000 rpm and stayed there. It wouldn't idle below that. Something is screwy now.

 

Just measured injectors. All around 16.5 ohms.

Also measured two wire coolant temp sensor at 565 ohms and slowly changing as it cooled off. It was barely warmed up though.

 

TPS - 3 wires, regular "pot" - across the blue and brown wires (that's what's in the RAVE) a reading that does not change, between 4000 and 6000 ohms. Between either blue or brown, and the "wiper" green wire, ohms will vary, should be smooth from 0 to 4000 - 6000 ohms. So if you got millions, you can afford a Defender! No,, if you have high ohms value, TPS needs help. This could be part of making things rich.

 

Sounds like a new TPS is in order then. Hopefully it will work out to be something simple like that.

 

From what I've read in other threads, messing around with the TPS can really screw up the ecu. Now I can't get it to idle below 2000 rpm. The TPS shouldn't be any different than it was before. I also read that it can't be reset with a scanner, but only a special device

Still no sign of coolant in oil sample.

Hopefully the ultra-gauge sheds some light on what's going on because I'm completely stumped why this thing is dumping so much fuel. And if only I could find a coolant pressure tester to fit our stupid threaded radiator caps then I could finally rule out coolant having anything to do with it.

Called the only place that will work on Rovers around here and they want 85/hr just to diagnose the thing.