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ALARM & Driver Door Issue ((Searched ad nauseum))

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  #21  
Old 10-24-2011 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Battery needs to be connected. Open connector, read what ever color is on pin 3, it is supposed to be blue with green. Read for ohms toward door. Operate door, no short to ground means broken wire in harness or bad door switch.Read for volts toward dash, should be some DC volts. If volts there, wire should eb OK to module.If no ohms when door switch operated, plug connector back together. Stick pin in the wire on terminal three. Read pin for volts to ground. If same volts there as above test, short that pin to ground for a bump. Should cycle alarm and unlock door.If it does not, open connector. Put 12 volts on for a moment to the wire on pin 6, which is supposed to be yellow and pink. Do this on connector that goes toward door. Door should unlock. Leave connector off while you finish troubleshooting so door can't re-lock. BTW, you won't be able to lock door until you get this fixed.
Awesomeness! Thanks, this makes much more sense(still coming down off the medication, lol).

Unfortunately the sun is setting on this yoga day, but I should be able to ride my Harley tomorrow with some long johns and solve this Rubik's cube alarm.

I was also in a crazy yoga position while looking at the wire, so maybe the blood rushing to my head made it look turquoise, lol.

...there's a fuse for the horn to pull beforehand, right?

Thanks again for the help!

...and groundandpound, I am getting more and more serious about "downgrading" my Disco, so look for the write-up!
 
  #22  
Old 10-24-2011 | 06:20 PM
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F4 under the hood, also does alarm

horn relay is in same kick panel, closest to the door frame.

previous owner lost a rattlesnake that does not like loud noises.......
 
  #23  
Old 10-26-2011 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
F4 under the hood, also does alarm

horn relay is in same kick panel, closest to the door frame.

previous owner lost a rattlesnake that does not like loud noises.......

F4 under the hood just said horn and hazards... I tried all the steps without it in... no luck

The Disco is running like new.... if only I could get the @#%@$%#^!! alarm off!

I wish I would bump into someone who worked for LR on the street today, lol. Breaking News: LR employee held hostage until owner gets his alarm fixed!
 
  #24  
Old 10-26-2011 | 01:56 PM
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I may just make it my life's work to put together a good write-up/photos/youtube video of how to make your Land Rover's alarm disappear!

I wish you would. Just removing immob would also help.
 
  #25  
Old 10-26-2011 | 03:36 PM
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Fuse has to be in once you start trying to meter or short to grround. Pull wires off horns or horn relay out.
 
  #26  
Old 10-26-2011 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Fuse has to be in once you start trying to meter or short to grround. Pull wires off horns or horn relay out.

Thanks again for the millionth time!

I am trying to sift through the RAVE, honest. I was just being lazy and don't want the horn going off while I'm sardine'd in the driver's footwell. I accidentally hit the button to slide the seat forward while messing with the connectors and thought that was how the police would find my body, lol.

It looks like connector C283 in that same area is the one for the horns... wish me luck!
 
  #27  
Old 10-26-2011 | 05:14 PM
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Yay! I can't find my meter

I don't care about locking the door... ever.

So far, I can not get the door unlocked. How do I put 12v to pin 6 on the connector(door side)?

I just need to start the thing.

Sorry for the dumb questions, but being in that cramped space is making me brain-dead. At least pulling the relay at C283 got the horn to stop.

Could the spider jump solution get it running and just use the passenger door? LOL

***UPDATE***
...just found my meter. Will update in two weeks.
 

Last edited by ThorsDiscovery; 10-26-2011 at 05:48 PM.
  #28  
Old 10-26-2011 | 09:47 PM
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Unplug connector so you don't put voltage on alarm module. With a long jumper wire from the battery. Just touch yellow with pink for a moment. The door actuator other side goes to ground and does not use the same connector.

We would like your assistant to post photos of you doing this work...
 
  #29  
Old 10-27-2011 | 04:59 AM
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How about we try this from the theft control unit end, on the other side of the car? You can skip the yoga classes at the gym this week...

the yellow pink appears on pin 7 of connector C225. Put +12 to it while other plugs near driver door are connected together, should unlock door. The blue with green should be on same connector at pin 8. Straight pin in wire, touch to ground, should turn off alarm AND unlock door, if C225 plugged in to module.

Most kidz in da 'hood can do this in like 20 seconds...

See attached:
 
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  #30  
Old 12-08-2011 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
How about we try this from the theft control unit end, on the other side of the car? You can skip the yoga classes at the gym this week...

the yellow pink appears on pin 7 of connector C225. Put +12 to it while other plugs near driver door are connected together, should unlock door. The blue with green should be on same connector at pin 8. Straight pin in wire, touch to ground, should turn off alarm AND unlock door, if C225 plugged in to module.

Most kidz in da 'hood can do this in like 20 seconds...

See attached:
It has been a bit more than a couple weeks, but that is what happens when Uncle Sam owns ya. :-P

I tried all of the above with c225 not plugged in. I just saw the caveat about it being plugged in, lol. So, is there a good end to use on a wire to do all these things? I am using some solid core wire, but I want a more permanent solution since it looks like I may have to survive the winter fighting this alarm.

Any more advice? I will post pics and instructions to whatever actual solution I find, thanks!
 


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