Another overheating issue
#31
Update:
I worked all evening on the disco, changed the oil and oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, new spark plugs and wires, replaced the fan clutch, and put a 180 degree thermostat, replaced a blinker and took my rad to the shop!!! Now I just realized my key wont unlock or lock my disco. I can lock it from the inside, and all the doors will lock, but the key will not work in either the drivers door or the passengers door. It won't even unlock the fuel tank. I'm guessing it's not the actuators bc the locks still move. Is it just the lock cylinder? All the threads I looked up just dealt with the actuators.
I worked all evening on the disco, changed the oil and oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, new spark plugs and wires, replaced the fan clutch, and put a 180 degree thermostat, replaced a blinker and took my rad to the shop!!! Now I just realized my key wont unlock or lock my disco. I can lock it from the inside, and all the doors will lock, but the key will not work in either the drivers door or the passengers door. It won't even unlock the fuel tank. I'm guessing it's not the actuators bc the locks still move. Is it just the lock cylinder? All the threads I looked up just dealt with the actuators.
#33
Nope no other key! How could I get a new one for it? From VIN through Land Rover? Also, just got a call from the rad shop, the radiator was 100% blocked!! He sent me a picture of one end just to make sure I believed him. It was packed full of StopLeak and he has to rod out both ends now and it's going to be $267 and some change. Kind of downer but that sounds like my problem!!
#34
Nope no other key! How could I get a new one for it? From VIN through Land Rover? Also, just got a call from the rad shop, the radiator was 100% blocked!! He sent me a picture of one end just to make sure I believed him. It was packed full of StopLeak and he has to rod out both ends now and it's going to be $267 and some change. Kind of downer but that sounds like my problem!!
Sounds very expensive. Mine was 50-60 and Sava says it's around $100 cuz they already made the boat payments.
edit: those prices are when you take it yourself. maybe call another guy and get a quote over the phone if you take it. at least you might be able to knock a few bucks off the your guy. might as well put the new hoses on if you haven't already.
Last edited by slanginsanjuan; 02-17-2012 at 09:28 AM. Reason: additional stuff
#35
#36
Update:
I got all my parts back together just now, I replaced the hoses and now I don't know if the system is bled properly. How can I tell? The upper rad hose gets hot, but seems pretty soft still. There is no waterfall behind the dash and the temp stays good. I ran it for 45 min and it never budged past half way. I can't seem to find these "bleeder screws" I find people talking about. Thanks in advance!
I got all my parts back together just now, I replaced the hoses and now I don't know if the system is bled properly. How can I tell? The upper rad hose gets hot, but seems pretty soft still. There is no waterfall behind the dash and the temp stays good. I ran it for 45 min and it never budged past half way. I can't seem to find these "bleeder screws" I find people talking about. Thanks in advance!
#37
You don't have them, they are in the D2 setup. When I did mine, and engine was cold, I took out the radiator plug, and filled in there, and kept it up until it overflowed, with engine running, and screwed it back in, then filled a little more in the coolant reserve container. Once it warms up and opens/closes a few times you should be good. Check again every day for a few days and top off if needed. Not gurgle is one of the best sounds you will ever hear.
#38
That's exactly what I did good deal. I also had to reverse the heater hoses in order to remove the waterfall. But it worked!! I hope this is smoother sailing now! I'll post some pics of my progress soon! Btw does anyone know where I can get the pigtail for the front right blinker? It's burnt up and I kind of need that to pass inspection. Lol.
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