Battery drain/bad ground confusion
Modern cars have a feature that the windows can be operated after the key is turned off for some time until the timer times out or a door is opened. Maybe the door open feature was added at some point. These design details are always being tweaked. Gives engineers something to do. Maybe see if the windows stop working after some time.
Modern cars have a feature that the windows can be operated after the key is turned off for some time until the timer times out or a door is opened. Maybe the door open feature was added at some point. These design details are always being tweaked. Gives engineers something to do. Maybe see if the windows stop working after some time.
So went up today to try the battery, cranks over fine, doesn't seem to be any discharge going on, however there is now a rather large problem. It no longer fires, and it did when I parked it there, so I checked spark and for whatever reason the first 3 from front to rear on drivers side have no spark. Didn't bother testing past that point as they are brand new plugs, and wires. So I went and tested the power for the coil pack assembly, and it's getting power, but that is about it. Gonna have to wait till Monday to do a test on each one of the packs to see if they are actually sending spark out. Not sure why it decided to go all wonky as I didn't touch anything related to the spark, or starting of the car, well other than to test the ignition fuses to see if they were reason for battery drain. Well hope y'all have a good one, and hopefully will figure something out next week.
Thanks, I would greatly appreciate it. So I went out and tested the coil pack to see if it's sending out spark the ol fashioned way with a bolt and screwdriver, and the first 3 I checked did nothing. Checked the plug again, one wire has power with key on, and when cranking, the rest nothing, meaning the light on my tester didn't light up. So still not sure why it suddenly decided to do this, or what could be causing it, as I didn't touch any of that. Attempted to swap the old window lift,abs,and other computers that were originally in it back in, and no change. Then did a test with all of em out, same results, but at least the battery isn't drained down like it would have been. So I think I found the battery drain, now I just gotta try to figure out why it's refusing to start and no spark. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, even more so since now the 03 Pathfinder is constantly throwing miss fire on cyl 3, and the 02 Frontier won't even turn over with a good battery in it. Sometimes I hate cars, and think I should get rid of em all, and just go buy something pre computers :P
Thanks, I would greatly appreciate it. So I went out and tested the coil pack to see if it's sending out spark the ol fashioned way with a bolt and screwdriver, and the first 3 I checked did nothing. Checked the plug again, one wire has power with key on, and when cranking, the rest nothing, meaning the light on my tester didn't light up. So still not sure why it suddenly decided to do this, or what could be causing it, as I didn't touch any of that. Attempted to swap the old window lift,abs,and other computers that were originally in it back in, and no change. Then did a test with all of em out, same results, but at least the battery isn't drained down like it would have been. So I think I found the battery drain, now I just gotta try to figure out why it's refusing to start and no spark. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, even more so since now the 03 Pathfinder is constantly throwing miss fire on cyl 3, and the 02 Frontier won't even turn over with a good battery in it. Sometimes I hate cars, and think I should get rid of em all, and just go buy something pre computers :P
Remember the ECU controls the coils spark by switching the negative (ground) to the coils, so a test light probably will not show. 12 V power is constantly supplied on the red wire(s). A test light connected between red and any coil ground wire (any of the other coil wires) should flash while cranking or running.
Remember the ECU controls the coils spark by switching the negative (ground) to the coils, so a test light probably will not show. 12 V power is constantly supplied on the red wire(s). A test light connected between red and any coil ground wire (any of the other coil wires) should flash while cranking or running.
I don't know what they were thinking on a lot of that 2000s Nissan stuff, other than making it completely more complicated than it needs to be, but think I got em figured out. The Pathfinder is a bad coil pack on cyl 3, and the Frontier had a badly corroded 100 amp battery fuse, so ordered parts for both of em. Another confusing why Nissan moment, the battery fuse bolts in, ok, but you have to pretty much pull the under hood fuse box apart to get to the bolts, oh and one bolt is a 10mm, the other is a 8mm.
It sounds like it is turning over fine, and I tested the fuel rail, and it is for sure getting fuel. Going to go out later and recheck fuses, and the plug order as I am fairly certain that I got em back in the right order when I pulled the coil pack out when doing the o2 sensors. Also going to try another battery just in case, as I saw some posts on one of the other LR forums where someone swapped the battery and it started right up. I did check spark on the first 3 plugs on the drivers side the other day but got nothing from all of em. Will try the test light thing you suggested John, and let you all know what happens. I am hoping it's something simple and it will fire right up.
I don't know what they were thinking on a lot of that 2000s Nissan stuff, other than making it completely more complicated than it needs to be, but think I got em figured out. The Pathfinder is a bad coil pack on cyl 3, and the Frontier had a badly corroded 100 amp battery fuse, so ordered parts for both of em. Another confusing why Nissan moment, the battery fuse bolts in, ok, but you have to pretty much pull the under hood fuse box apart to get to the bolts, oh and one bolt is a 10mm, the other is a 8mm.
I don't know what they were thinking on a lot of that 2000s Nissan stuff, other than making it completely more complicated than it needs to be, but think I got em figured out. The Pathfinder is a bad coil pack on cyl 3, and the Frontier had a badly corroded 100 amp battery fuse, so ordered parts for both of em. Another confusing why Nissan moment, the battery fuse bolts in, ok, but you have to pretty much pull the under hood fuse box apart to get to the bolts, oh and one bolt is a 10mm, the other is a 8mm.

I don't think we need to jump to the ECU yet. More often than not, it seems on this forum, crank-no-start problems are caused by a faulty crank position (CKP) sensor, although could be other issues. That's why troubleshooting was invented.


