So Wed I went out and hooked everything back up, thought I may as well try it and it fired up and ran fine, let it run for a bit and shut off, wait and it would start again. So I thought ok not sure what it was, but it works, and yesterday and today put everything back together. Go to fire it up to let it warm up some and take it on a short little under 2 mile drive, and back to just cranking. Though this time it threw two codes, P0335, and P1317. I know the 335 is the CKP, and that makes less than any sense, mostly because it's got a brand new OEM sensor in it with not even 50 miles on it. So unless the thing just decided at some point when I parked it to just die I got no clue why it would throw that code. Also not sure why it throws the 1317 code, and honestly not sure why it's throwing that as I haven't touched anything related to the ABS system. So now I am even more confused about what is going on with this thing. Am starting to think it's just wanting to be parked.

 

Could be the wiring connector is having a problem vs the CKP sensor. Especially if it got melted on the exhaust manifold. But could be the sensor. Failure rates for electronics are high early and late in life (i.e. the famous bathtub curve). It is good to have a "known good" CKP sensor spare at all times (e.g. for testing and stranded situations). NTK sells good quality sensors, with good quality wire connectors, and not too expensive.

 

So I did some thinking after I had myself a little nap thanks to my back meds :P, and remembered they sensor I bought wasn't OEM, it was a NTK, and I am fairly certain that I put it in but not 100%, because the issue before wasn't the sensor but the wiring, and I ended up cutting it up on the top side of the motor, and adding in some better wiring, with braided shielding, and a HeatShield Lava Hot Rod braided wire sheath good for 1200f continuous. So it's possible I just put the old one back in and the new one is sitting up in the shop in my box of Disco spares/parts.

I forgot to mention when it fired up I had hooked up the Window ECU, ABS ECU, and cruse control module that are all on that same mount that were originally in the car, well not the original WLift ECU, but the one I fixed, and works with the key off. The ones that are in it right now are the 3 from my mom's 95 V8i. Honestly not sure this would cause a issue or not, as they are all the exact same P/N, but going to give it a try tomorrow, and take a look at where I soldered the upgraded CKP wire up top to make sure nothing went wonky, as when it started up and ran on Wed. I didn't actually have the coil packs where they mount to. Just had them kind of resting back in the space between where it mounts and the firewall, and did have to move the CKP wire as it was trying to get pinched.

Supposed to rain tomorrow so may be a couple days before next update, and thank you for the suggestions, will let y'all know what happens, and if it's not till next week that I can get to it, have a good weekend.

 

So I went up and dug through all my extra parts, and found the CKP, and it's the one that was originally in the Disco when I got it. So the new NTK one I got is the one in the car right now, and honestly I am not 100% as to how long it has been in there, or how many miles, but I do know it's under 500 miles. Weather won't let me check the wiring today so that is going to have to wait until either Monday or Tuesday at the earliest, but will keep you posted as to what I find out. Below is the link to the NTK one I have in it, I do remember having to use the original spacer as the one that came on the NTK was actually too far out and it wouldn't bolt in properly.

https://www.ngk.com/ntk-73294-eh0302...osition-sensor

 

So went up today and changed out the ABS ECU, and put the original one from the car in, and that changed nothing. Honestly didn't figure it would, but worth a shot. Then I unbolted the coil pack from where it mounts, and checked the wiring, but nothing looked suspect there, tried to start with it not bolted down, but nada. I then peeled back the heat shield sleeve, and braided tinned copper I put around the upgraded CKP wires, nothing looked bad there either, and I tested with my light tester with engine cranking over, but no lights on either side of the CKP wiring. I have the coil pack down at the house, and going to try to do a test on it with a multimeter once I can find what sort of readings are good and bad for the packs. They are a bit rusted in spots so figured I would test em. WIll also go test the wiring for the CKP from the top where I soldered the upgraded wiring to the loom and see what sort of numbers it gives for resistance. I was going to test the coil packs with light tester, but honestly forgot how you said to do it, so may do that tomorrow, weather permitting. Will keep ya informed, and if you have any ideas/thoughts as always they are appreciated.

 

Was finally able to find a reading for what the CKP should read with resistance test, so went up and tested via the wires that I upgraded where they are soldered to the wires on the loom that came on the car. It read at 1219 ohm on 2k ohm setting. Going off what I found that should mean that the CKP that is on it now is good, as it said between 200-1k ohm is a normal range, but it can vary. I then came down and tested the old sensor that was on the car when we got it, and no wires it reads at 1292 ohm on the 2k setting. So if those are both correct then there is nothing wrong with the CKP, and that did kinda confuse me as it did start, but then decided yeah no not gonna start again a day later. Still looking for resistance figures for the coil packs, but will give them a test later today.

 

The coils for my '96 were 0.8 ohm primary, 12.67 - 13.02 kohm secondary. The main thing is they all should be about the same, if the parts are all the same. Check for rust/corrosion inside the HT terminals. Some coils I had failed, the secondaries read only about 4 kohms, indicating short circuiting. I am not sure if resistance is a valid test for the CKP sensor.

 

When you tested yours was that inside where the plug wire goes, or the wire connections at the bottom of the pack? I tested the bottom wires that go to the plug that connects to the main loom, but couldn't figure how to test where the spark plug wires went into the pack. Will list the results from test below, they were all done at 200ohm. So I found a couple things, not for LR stuff, but saying to test the crank sensor while cranking it using voltage, and it should read somewhere round 5v if good when cranking. So will go try that test tomorrow, but if you know of a way to test it without having to crawl under and pull it out I would love to know. Anyway after cleaning everything up on pack I went up and tried it again, and as usual.. nothing. I swear I should change this from being a mystery battery drain to mystery why did it decide to suddenly not start, then started once then back to not starting lol.

Test results for wires on bottom of coil pack
3/2 - Red 0.4, Orange 0.4 (originally it read at 2.8-2.5 on the nut, but I cleaned a bit of corrosion and gunk off and then it read at 0.4)
7/4 - Red 0.5, Purple 0.4
5/8 - Red 0.6, Green 0.4
1/6- Red 0.9, Blue 0.4
I should mention that other than the 3/2 the rest of the results were before I cleaned all the nuts, washers, and crimps of minor corrosion, and gunk. Didn't retest them after doing so.

 

Coil ohms should be measured like this, with everything disconnected. So unplug the low voltage plug, black lead on Orange, red lead on Red, will produce a single reading. Not sure why you show two readings (could be 0.4 + 0.4 = 0.8)? 200 ohm setting is good for the low voltage Primary windings. Then use a higher setting on the ohmmeter (20 K or so) and measure with black lead contacting the metal inside one HT terminal, and red lead contacting the metal inside the other HT terminal. This will also produce a single value for each coil Secondary or High Voltage windings. Repeat for each coil pack. Look inside each HT terminal (mirror and flashlight) to check for corrosion (white powder) or burning. The HT terminals should be shiny metal too. Let us know what the values are after measuring this way.

 

Thank you very much for letting me know how to test em, honestly I am still really new to using a multimeter, and the reason for the two readings is because I was actually testing each wire on it's own. Like with the red and orange I had the black lead on the coil pack nut, and the red lead on the pin in the connector. I will go up when there is a break in the rain or when it's a little less and pull the pack back out and retest, and let ya know what readings I get.