Ok so looking around for others have issues. So I had a brake peddle getting hard for a week. 180k original miles. I have done pads and front rotors. Took a 1500 mile trip to and had to do back rotors and pads. I have gotten a abs light off and on for while now. The stopping get hairy when lights is off once in while. Master cylinder was leaking at resivor seal so I did new master cylinder and brake booster. The day after front brakes locked up caught fire. So now new calipers new reducer valve new fluid change and blead with pressure pump. Still have problems. So triple checked everything and got to point I de-valved the abs pump to use as a manifold block. Front Brakes still lock up and had to break open the brake lines to brakes loose to get home. So question is did I get a bad master cylinder or what is the deal!!!!!

 

If you didn't buy a OE master cylinder you'd better cuz the brakes will lock up hard. First one is the one you'll need - RovahFarm for all your new Land Rover Parts and Accessories

 

Well got another new master cylinder oem this time! Still doing same thing. Have brake hoses coming tomorrow but don't think that is it. So is there way to gut the abs pump and use as a manifold block for the brake lines or just take out all together?

 

Any way to know when the brake master cylinder is going bad/or is bad? Visual inspection or something when driving?

 

https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?...&highlight=abs

 

 

Thank you for the link on parts. So the rover was off the road for little over a month! Longest its ever sat. 3 master cylinder later to get a good one. A oem proportional valve. Brake booster from the original repair. After the front brake caught fire. I did calipers, pads, cleaned up rotors as they were new and flex hoses. The front brake kept locking up in less than a mile. Well the abs valve a few were bad wasn't paying the price for one not even a used one. So I switched it to standard brakes. I had issues with abs spazzing out on me many time it make for a shot gun ride. I didn't want to rebend line or buy new ones. So did some parts searching because no one local was any help. I found 10mx1 bubble tees for 64'- 72 vw different models and bought 3 of them. I found 10mx1 bubble couplers a 5 pack just in case I needed. I picked 2 short hard lines with 10mx1 ends. Then was the hard find a 12mx1 female reducer to a 10mx1 bubble male. I could find the other direction but I found one out of riga lavtia near Poland. It was a 12mx1 bubble female to a 10mx1 single flare which I didn't realize until i received. So I put nut on it and made a bubble end on the 10mx1 male. I only had to tweek one of tbe factory lines oh and picked up a plug for one of the tee. So took the abs valve out and connected all the line with the parts bled the brakes and been driving for 2 weeks now no issues. Had to adjust the booster couple times as it doesn't come set up for right length push rod.

 

So the problem was the ABS valve? Been toying with the idea of removing it. No problems yet but it would be my luck for it to act up.