right on - always a good idea to flush it first
edit - actually I wonder if theres a thiner solution I could use in the cooler line tanks to flush it - I may hit them with WD-40 then flush with oil/atf

almost wondering if its gonna be a recored if I should see if they can do 4 cores instead of the stock 3. Though - does that make that much of a diff given its already big as $#!@

 

If you want to use a chemical to clean the coolers I use CRC 091314 Brake Cleaner. That is the Chlorinated type with NO Acetone.
Paint Thinner/Mineral Spirits will work too.
You don't need much (3 -4 trigger pulls) then let the rad sit flat for a few minutes. Now flush the coolers TWICE with clean ATF and Engine Oil. It will only take about 1/2 QT total and all the snot is gone. If you are unsure the cleaner is gone just look for bubbles in the fluids. When the brake cleaner is gone there will be no bubbles in the fluids. It's really that simple.

RE: 3 or 4 row cores I've done both and didn't see any real advantage (on or off road).
If the Rad Shop will do a 4 row for a little more $ and it makes you feel better then do it. If not in the budget don't sweat it.
And remember to replace the (4) oil cooler o rings ( ESR1594L ). They are the same for the ATF and E Oil.
It's time to start drinking!!!!

 

oh yeah been drinking - got the o rings already - ordered extra before

 

recore - $635.00
looks like Im going with a Nissens

 

WOW that guy is NUTS!!!!
It looks like he called a LR Dealer and cut the full retail price of a new "Genuine" radiator in half.
He thinks that he is doing you a favor when it looks like he's saving you $600......TOTAL B$!

I have used the Nissens 64029 radiators with zero problems. That radiator used to come with metal tanks, but Nissens might have stopped making that to go with plastic. Either way if/when I can't get a recore done that's the rad I will always use (metal or plastic tanks I've use both from them).
I wouldn't recommend it if I didn't have confidence in the quality.

 

idk - coppers it expensive as hell and its a lot of labor involved - I figured it would be over $500 min.

good to hear you've had good experience with Nissans - cuz thats on its way
Im so over constantly checking the temp gauge

 

Yeah I took my 95 D1 original radiator to a local shop to have a leak fixed by the fill plug. I get a call back it was going to cost 400.00 by the time they were done so I said no thank you. So I ordered a 330.00 Aluminum 4 Row radiator from Ebay. Well it sat in a box over the holidays and I finally got around to installing it only to find the oil cooler fittings = DO NOT work... The OEM lines will not sit down inside the necks on the radiator. They are part of the tank so that means either modify the lines (do not want to do that), or ask for a refund. Well I went with Option #2 and of coarse I haven't heard a thing from the Ebay seller.... Looks like a 160.00 Plastic/Aluminum core unit or a 290.00 Nissens is in my future. I also didn't like how the upper support post were way off and the fan shroud fit poorly on the Aluminum one.

Gotta love it when people claim their stuff is 100% compatible.

 

look back in the post's - one of mine should have the part number you need for the cooler line adapters to that alum rad. But honestly my alum rad turned out to be junk after 2 months. I went with the Nissens and thats leaking too - just not as bad, still under warrenty so its going back as soon as its warmer out.

This is what is making me want to sell my Rover, there is nothing more frustrating than taking the time and care to keep a vehicle maintained only to get to the point that quality parts just are not available anymore.

 

Yep I’ve seen the nissens seep as well so it’s like I’ve always said, a plastic tank radiator no matter the brand = plastic tank!

I have 4 adapters from the original radiator, but the aluminum one I got = nipples do not come off. So I’d need an adapter from the main outer thread to the smaller & then back to the larger one. Not worth it at all in my book. I’m still waiting to hear back from the Ebay seller & then I’ll probably go with the 165.00 radiator. All the plastic tank radiators I’ve read about apparently seep at the lower hose connector as it’s screwed onto the tank. Almost tempted to carefully remove it, get a thermostat housing gasket, and apply a tiny amount of RTV to both sides and re-install it.

 

ok - I get what your saying now - the other issue with those adapters too is that it puts the lower trans cooller line really really really close to the PS pump.