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I upgraded my brakes in the summer of 2018, and also replaced my 7-year old braided lines with a fresh set. You will need to bend your own lines on the fronts for sure. Sorry, but I don't have any closeup photos of the custom lines. My suggestion is to not cheap out on the line bender. A better quality bender that can easily make tight bends will make it much easier. My method was to mark the areas to bend one at a time from the top connection (to the flex line) down to the bottom. I botched a couple lines, but they are fairly inexpensive.
I did attach a photo of one of the fronts all done below. One thing I still have yet to solve is getting my pedal pressure back to what I would expect. I bled all four corners in the recommended order, and even invested in a nice vacuum bleeder that attaches to a compressor. Pedal still has more travel that I like, but the truck stops fine, and much better than it used to with original front calipers/rotors. If I pump it once before stopping, the pedal does get firmer, so either there is still air in the lines (doubtful after the amount of tries I made!) or I need to replace the 22-year-old master cylinder. I'll probably just do that this summer anyway. I am curious to see what your experience with the ultimate firmness/travel of your brake pedal once you are finished with the job.
I noticed a LOT more brake pedal travel! Finally done... however, before I can get it out of the garage I now need to drain the coolant and replace the hoses... if it’s not one thing it’s another... but it’s like the 6 million dollar man, we can rebuild it... I’ll admit it... it’s a sickness lol... Rover owners know what I’m talking about...
With this D1 brake caliper swap to D90/110 calipers, like the idea but keeping with solid discs your going from 2.046 sq/in piston area (D1) to 2,575 sq/in piston area (D90/110) a 25.87% increase. Is there a difference in master cylinder piston bore to compensate this added fluid displaced by the larger 90/110 caliper pistons preventing lower brake pedal position before the brakes begin to be applied? Thinking larger booster diameter on a 90/110 vs a D1 to compensate for the larger pistons of D90/110 calipers? What is different allowing the same applied brake pedal pressure to stop if any?
The 95 D1 already requires a lot of petal pressure with normal braking, forget any panic stop, can't even lock up the front brakes. ABS fuse removed a safety issue I need to stop vs pulsing ABS with pedal sinking to the floor. That ABS activation issue was why the wifey never drove the D1 again back in 2010 after running up a driveway, across a yard and into bushes vs running over 8 year old kids after a school pick up years ago. Hence it's my personal toy vehicle. Wifey refuses to ever sit in it again, 10 years and counting. The 5 spd w/4.6 w/chip plus other added tricks keep the LR interests alive,.....~~=o&o>......
can you elaborate on the 4.6 w/ chip plus other added tricks?
can you elaborate on the 4.6 w/ chip plus other added tricks?
Best to contact off forum be it PM first, i'll send my email address we can chat vs screwing around with PM's as I had in the past had my PM's snooped into by LR forum's moderators, I trust no one these days.
Several years ago this or another forum I mentioned and posted photos of items I machines out plus had done to my 95 D1 and was told to "GO AWAY" these are slow but very capable vehicles not some damn hot rod, "LEAVE". This after the 4.6 install vs the sad 3.9. Fast forward 8 to 10 years later now reading 350 chubbie installs into LR's. That's a sin at least I kept it a LR engine, hell 4.6 was an option in the Disco at one time. BTW, no issues with clogged up vented discs, I still have OEM brakes all around with solid discs as well it's a street only vehicle hence suspension items to keep it off it's lid. Can still see a few factory grease or inspection markings on the frame from factory assembly. Your blessed owning a 5 speed D1, automatics were off my lookie list seconds after test driving several friends owning automatic D1's......~~=o&o>......
So I finally got it out of the garage and went around the block only to find the brake pedal travels all the way to the floor and the vehicle barely stops....
im guessing the fluid needs to be flushed as there may be air in the lines somewhere... following that, if it doesn’t fix it, any other suggestions?
So I finally got it out of the garage and went around the block only to find the brake pedal travels all the way to the floor and the vehicle barely stops....
im guessing the fluid needs to be flushed as there may be air in the lines somewhere... following that, if it doesn’t fix it, any other suggestions?
