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fuel pump questions

Old Sep 23, 2015 | 07:56 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by pidge
Kind of taking it easy today BUT I got my car towed up here... here's MY fuel pump relay, I do believe...
That relay is also known as the multi-function unit (MFU).
Relay - Fuel Pump - Multifunction (Genuine Part # YWB100820L ) - Land Rover connector\relays\flasher from Atlantic British
 
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 09:28 AM
  #32  
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How do I test the relay/ MFU to see if that's the problem???
 
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 01:31 PM
  #33  
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Pidge....first let me say that I wish you the best health. Next, you are not some dumb girl but very clearly a freakin stud!

Was there power at the fuel pump (when the key is in pos 2, of course)?
 
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 03:19 PM
  #34  
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I gave up and I'm having it towed to the repair.

The only thing I could figure out how to do all this time later was take off the fuel filter, and I can't get the nuts to budge even a little.

I have no idea how to check power at the relay.
I have no idea how to get the rusted screws off to check the pump.
I have no idea what I'm supposed to be checking on the driver's side wires.

I just can't move from go so I give up.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 03:41 PM
  #35  
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So much for the drone gone wild, couldn't control it, abort, ABORT! Aww, it went over the fence........
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 12:17 PM
  #36  
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Aaaand I am back in the repair business.

My shop wants $700 to fix it, and forget that. Seriously.

Without accessing the pump, the mechanic says relays all work and that the pump only comes on intermittently. So -- pump. But they will work with nothing but a new OEM assembly, and all the extras, so they heck with that.

Extremely disappointed in my mechanic, who told me he would call some guys for a picked part, but two days later says his shop would never use one.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 12:52 PM
  #37  
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$700!!!??? Good for you walking away. The pre-AEL pumps are about $110 from RovahFarm. http://search.cartserver.com/search/...R3926&go=GO%21
Buy a new seal, too.
But first I'd pull the inspection plate and test for power at the pump.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 01:31 PM
  #38  
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yeah, first gotta get off the rusted screws, which won't be fun.

Well, first gotta pay them $100 for lame diagnostics, which I'm not psyched about, and get my car back here. THEN rusted screws. Then VICTORY!
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 01:35 PM
  #39  
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Check out this link. A D1 has an access panel in the rear cargo area so it is very easy to get to the top of the pump. The rest is pretty much the same. Pictures help visualize. Your truck is very very similar to the 'classic Range Rover'

Hope this helps.

fuelpump

Here is another one. Reading through the thread will explain a lot.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...71/#post152377

You already know this...but remember that the pre-AEL's use slightly different pumps.
 

Last edited by WaltNYC; Oct 1, 2015 at 01:38 PM.
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 01:47 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by pidge
yeah, first gotta get off the rusted screws, which won't be fun.

Well, first gotta pay them $100 for lame diagnostics, which I'm not psyched about, and get my car back here. THEN rusted screws. Then VICTORY!
If you can get some left handed drill bits from Harbor Freight that would be the way to go for those rusted screws. If not, just use a regular drillbit just slightly larger than the screw thread diameter. Drill the screws and usually the head will pop right off. Once you remove the inspection plate there should be enough of the thread sticking up to grab with a Vise-Grips and turn out.
You may have to replace the plastic parts the screws thread into, but those can be found at a hardware or auto-parts store. Replace the screws with Stainless Steel ones.
 
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