As far as I can tell, the packaged coil sets list a drill bit that is sized for steel. Aluminum is normally drilled slighty smaller to cut deeper threads. Many tap/drill size charts take the softness of metal into account. See Tap Drill Chart.

Like a dummy, I followed the package. For the Alcoa Fix A Thred, it said 25/64ths. Good thing I didn't go by their web site, http://afs-fix.com/fix-a-thred/06.htm; where it lists 29/64th as the drill size. Both values would be too big for aluminum, and the web site value is a typo I suspect.

Second dumb thing was that I looked in the RAVE, under SFI fueling, and saw no intake write up. Flipped over to the D2, they had a pretty write up, with bolt sequences, multiple stages of torque. Final torque is stated as 51 nm. Got to that point on all bolts except one on first try. Pull it all apart, helicoil the one. Back together, with gasket alignment issues, my fault for not researching methods on multiple sites, and I must have cross threaded most of the holes. Torqued down, thinking metal gasket was pulling into place. Nope, most failed just above 40 nm.

In the D1 manual, under MFI fuel, they show the chart with 38 nm. They also show a generic torque spec of any bolt not specifically listed for 3/8 bolts as 40 nm.

The helicoil pulled out as well.

So now we are drilling out to "size U", threading for 7/16-14, and will have to helicoil the the one to 7/16 helicoil, needs a bigger hole.

Once you make a wrong turn on the trail, bad things start happening. I'm not out of the woods yet. There will be more problems. Good thing I still can get to the forum.

Working time is about an hour each day due to schedule issues I can't change. So a trip to the parts store burns my hour that day, etc.

 

Have made minimal progress due to rain and schedule. Made good progress so far today. 7/16 helicoil went in OK with a 27/64 drill hole. Rest are regular "U" drill size holes and thread for 7/16. If I was doing this again I would have made a "jig" that could be attached to other bolts, to hold bit in alignment, it is not 90 degrees to head surface.

Not a lot of meat to drill into.

 

Buzz, I feel for you! Thanks for sharing all of this, I have learned a ton of good info, not just by your trials and tribulations, but the way you approach the project and the photos.

You mention that the PCV should be taken care of mo'better by owners. In looking at the Rave, I don't see a 'regular' PCV valve to be changed like on an old Chevy, only an oil separator. Is this what you are talking about - cleaning it regularly?

 

Sir, yes Sir!

That oil separator allows oil laden vapor to be sucked into the intake and burned to reduce pollution. But the vapor has to have fresh air pulled into the engine, this comes from the throttle body side. On my D1 the filtered air from the MAF passes thru a hole in the throttle body just in front of the butter fly valve, out the side, and thru a hose into the driver side (NAS) valve cover. So air goes thru filter and MAF, thru the trottle body, thru driver side valve cover, thru the valley (under the "roof" formed by the valley pan), thru the passenger side valve cover, and into combustion chamber. My oil separator was broken into two pieces, it can't fall down inside because of the metal baffle. I found the second piece on top of the transmission. On my driver side, the port from valve cover to throttle body had gunk the viscosity of vaseline in the throttle body, mushed out with carb cleaner and Qtips. Seem to run smoother back when I did that.

Point is that people need to clean both sides. I guess you can tell from the pix that mine has a lot of time with clogged PCV.

A plus was that stray aluminum shavings that got around cloth and cardboard drapes were easy to find on that baked black background.

 

Dumb question: can the oil separator be cleaned without removing the valve cover?

 

Yes, pull out gently using pliers. Or squirt carb clean in.

 

Pucker factor has arrived. See pix of up turned lip on every gasket hole. This is from install with oem 3/8ths bolts. Bolts exit the head at an angle not equal to 90 degrees.

As I am putting in 7/16th bolts, which just clear snuggly these holes, should I enlarge holes?

 

Buzz, you need to drop $20 on a new valley pan gasket. Maybe use a step bit on the new gasket to cleanly enlarge the holes.

 

If you dont want to wait for mail and dont mind paying the premium, you may be able to find something local.

I f'ed up my valley gasket the first time too for similar reasons. Was able to get a Reinz at a euro auto parts shop in St Paul for $40.

 

this gasket is low miles, only torqued on the weekend, etc. lol

$42 at Advance near me, would have to order to get it here by Saturday, my next work opportunity. Really think it won't flatten out?