ok yeah....the bolt is out !!!! not sure how it happened as I was out playing in the snow when the guy came .....he was gonna wait until sunday but then apparently changed his mind and came this afternoon....probably just as well as i would have been panicked by the process of having torch next to my block All is well though and nothing was damaged in the process ....

timing chain is super loose ....kind of shocked how loose it is in fact.....to be certain does piston one at tdc mean that it is at the top of its cylinder and how important is this....I have coil packs not dizzy....but as far as lining up the marks on the two sprockets...and the whole tdc thing could someone advise beeter than the rave ....about the goal of this ....or explain it better thanks....first timing chain for me...thanks

 

Eric thanks for the link to your oil pump rebuild....I will be keeping an eye on how that turns out.....as I am pondering doing the same

yes I would say I have to agree that engine assembly lube would be better....

however fyi....vaseline is white petroleum jelly, aka, soft paraffin...and mentioned often on this forum as being used to prime the pump...its melting point of 130F at which point it becomes part of the oil.. flash point of only 200F (Closed cup) though...

EAL (engine assembly lube) seems to have melting point of -5.8F and flash point of 500F and really dissolves more than melts in to the oil so I think a will go for the EAL as well.... thanks for the info as to where it goes nice pics....

 

Oil pump - refit

1. Lubricate relief valve, spring, and bore in housing with clean engine oil.
2. Fit relief valve and valve spring.
3. Fit new sealing washer to plug, fit plug and tighten to correct torque.
4. Pack oil pump housing with Petroleum Jelly.

CAUTION: Use only Petroleum Jelly, no other grease is suitable.

5. Fit oil pump gears ensuring that Petroleum Jelly is forced into every cavity between teeth of gears.

 

Oil pump - refit

1. Lubricate relief valve, spring, and bore in housing with clean engine oil.
2. Fit relief valve and valve spring.
3. Fit new sealing washer to plug, fit plug and tighten to correct torque.
4. Pack oil pump housing with Petroleum Jelly.

CAUTION: Use only Petroleum Jelly, no other grease is suitable.

5. Fit oil pump gears ensuring that Petroleum Jelly is forced into every cavity between teeth of gears.

link to this page ......V8 Oil pump

 

Unless someone smarter chimes in I'm going stick with EAL.

 

Or maybe they just mean don't use elbow or bacon grease?

 

Whatever you use, you want it to be compatable and melt quickly so you do not screw up all that work.

 

so moving along ....cleaned up the gaskets off the front cover and such today removed the timing chain and gears.....I am wondering about the mark on said gears ......mine were set so that both gear marks were at 12o'clock....

for reassembly overhaul manual says.....

Timing gears - refit
1. Clean gear locations on camshaft and
crankshaft, fit Woodruff key to crankshaft.
2. Temporarily fit crankshaft gear and if
necessary, turn crankshaft to bring timing mark
on gear to the twelve o’clock position, remove
gear.
3. Temporarily fit camshaft gear.
4. Turn camshaft until mark on camshaft sprocket
is at the six o’clock position, remove gear
without moving camshaft.

this seems odd to me....can anyone explain why I am putting back on differently?

Eric did you notice how yours came off ?

thanks

 

Turn the crank until piston 1 (1st RH piston, in front facing engine bay, aka you're about to be run over) is at TDC. At this point the cam gear should be at 6 and crank gear at 12, or pointing directly at eachother. This is how it should be now, and how it should be reassembled.

 

ok I asked earlier in post top dead center ???? means the piston is at the top of its stroke?? aka the piston is now flush with the block??

also if this is the true that is where I set it before removing the gear....so now what?