I'm right there with you. I just stripped the threads out from the same area somehow.

Maybe try finding the biggest nut you can find that'll fit, loctite it on there with high strength red, and wrench it out. Or maybe weld the nut on there, and heat the female thread area locally.

 

And meanwhile there is an ad at the top of the page for SEAL STEEL "repairs blown head gaskets with no disassembly. LIFETIME GUARANTEE" I guess if you report it did not work they send Guido out to see you......


I was taught that a slight tightening is always the way to break torque on any fastener in the US Navy "A" schools. PB Blaster presoak always is advised on bolts that have been together for a long time.

Adownward strike with a hammer sends longitudnal shock waves down the shaft, helping to break the molecular bond via mechanical means. Heat causes expansion, material contract during cooling and the expansion/contraction cycles aid in loosening. Longer lever arm also helps increase the force allowing a smooth steady application of force that often reduces breakage.

Damn, where did that redneck come up with that idea?

 

Recently while doing some charity work for my sister in law and changing the timing belt on her V6 toyota camry one of the two studs that go through the water pump into the block that are blue loc-tited into place and have an e7 external torx on the end stripped the torx and then refused to come out with all other means (heat, vice grips, generic stud remover, etc..) as a last ditch before cutting it off flush and drilling it out i went to autozone and borrowed this: OEM/Metric Stud Remover Set (27140) | Stud Remover Set | AutoZone.com came out like it was nothing.. may want to give it a shot, cant hurt..

 

Sounds good, could not tell anything from looking at it, how does it do it?

 

MAGIC!! well, it worked so well it may have been. I think there are sets of serrated cams inside it that ratchet out and grip the stud as you turn it.

 

Oh, I bought the Sears Majical broke stuff removers that uses left hand helical cutting edges to grab a stripped bolt, but thet are not very high up on the performance list.

 

thanks everybody....I have ordered a universal stud remover ....so far tho I have no shipping date... so I have a welder coming to try welding a nut on...and heating the area on the front cover.....on of the other bolts was caked in oil and muck...I have a feeling it is the same situation plus it is in crooked or bent...adding up to 4in of frictionous glue...on an already cross threaded bolt...very nervous about this whole torch thing....wondering if I should wait out the tool??? either way breaking it once more will eliminate either of these other options.....whats amazing is that.....the front cover /oil pump can not be removed despite all other bolts having been removed......

Just so I have the info if/when i get it off where does one pack the oil pump during reassembly...and vasoline is the thing to use here?

 

Eric, What grease did you use?

I do not think vaseline would be the ideal grease to use.

 

See here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rebuild-45248/

I used engine assembly grease. It's black lithium grease that says it dissolves into oil. Others say petrolatum jelly.

As for the front cover, mine took a lot of force to remove, but you still have to be careful. Don't forget about the bolts on the bottom connecting the sump to the front cover.

 

Yeah, you do have to drop the sump first don't you?

Good time to clean it and get a new gasket on there to prevent leakage there.

I do recall seeing replacement sumps and oil pickup on the D&D webpage referred by Spike if your sump is or gets damaged. Also clean that screen in there as well...