Yes piston 1 should be at the top nearly flush. Rotate the crank one full turn so piston 1 is at TDC again. Now your marks should be at 12 for the crank and 6 for the cam.

 

Hey there....on second look one of my tappets is not doing well so to avoid upening it up again ive decided to pull them all and the camshaft to replace.....
is there a trick to getting the camshft out? It only moves a little bit and seems to get locked up .....dont know how hard I should be pulling on it....if someone could please advise...dont want to do any damage... Thanks

 

Bearings are probably locked in with crud. Remove the gear, thrust plate, replace bolt back into cam and if you have a plastic mallet give a few taps inward. See what you can then make happen from there. No plastic mallet, place a piece of wood on the bolt and tap that with a hammer. Go slow, no nicks on bearing bores.

All the lifters out?

 

Partially inserting the cam gear bolt and/or gear helps to grip the cam. Then gently pull it out while turning, lifting, angling, etc to get it out. You can also use one finger through the bottom of the valley to help lift up the far end after it's pulled out from the rear bearing. The suction forces, lobes, length, and weight of the cam make it tricky to remove and install.

I doubt the cam bearings could be replaced without removing the engine and pistons so you'll be stuck with the old ones. Just be careful not to damage them removing or inserting the cam.

You have some options for the new cam:

Buy the Allmakes cam and hope you get a good one

Buy a higher quality one from a different vendor

Have yours re-ground, Mike at B & M can help with this

Have my extra new cam for free, though the end needs to be machined to length

You may need a new thrust plate depending on the end-float after replacing your cam.

The Allmakes tappets look pretty good to me.

Also if you need a hand I'm not too far.

 

Thanks for the help..replaced the gear and bolt....twisting ...turning continuosly was just the trick at least until it released from the rear bearing ...then it came out rather easy......

 

Have my extra new cam for free, though the end needs to be machined to length

Wonder how that would be, is there much involved?

If she has hers reground what other compensations would need to be made?

It would be good to compare the high end cams for the differences between going high end over the above two options.

 

i must admit a do not understand how regrinding the old cam works? What does this even mean? ... wouldnt regrinding change the lobe size....and lift?

i have email into D&D Fab just to get an idea of what they have.....whats the difference....cost.....and because BP is on backorder.....

Eric do you have any pics of your front cam bearing???...at first I thought what i saw was damage....now it seems this is ...normal ? Please see picture here I found online the one with weird slots and such is what my front one looks like
...havent been able to get good pic of mine....

About your extra new one there did you feel that the height difference overall was the same of the spacing difference between the lobes it was hard to tell in your pictures....(ie did the lifter lobes line up with just extra material on one end ?......extra on both ends?)

In other news I have discovered my rad is trash.....went to have it rodded and shop discovered about 15% of my cooling fins were corroded and falling to pieces....this is happening mostly around the edges.....top, sides and bottom and so now I am having a new core welded in ......;(

Feeling like this was probably was contributing to why I was overheating on the way up hills and such when towing....but not at other times...

water pump looks good......don't really see how it could fail....it seems very solid.....

also my oil pump was within specs so I cleaned it all up packed it with white petroleum grease from NAPA installed new front seal....installed new oil pressure sensor......replaced both temp sensors on intake ....and am waiting on new viscous for fan....

Also I am waiting on just about every gasket you can think of/camshaft/tappets/and so much more.... so just trying to prep as much as I can!!!

 

Cam grinding restores the ratio between dimensions of the lobes. Yes the lobes get a tiny amount smaller, but the hydraulic tappets compensate for it.

Unfortunately I don't have any pics of my old cam bearings. They're pretty hard to get a good look at in situ.

You can see the issue with the cam here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...amshaft-45207/

It should be very easy for a machine shop to fix. The overall length and everything else looks identical.

Good luck

 

dO YOU THINK THAT HAVING THE CAM DONE IN THIS WAY WOULD KEEP ME FROM HAVING TO SHIM FOR tappet/lifter PRELOAD ?

.02 THE MAXIMUM WAS REMOVED FROM MY HEADS...i have not been able to test for preload at this time .....but am expecting to need shims due to the material removed......

if so this might be an interesting way around using shims.....hmmm

 

It is possible you may not need shims, but I'd still carry out the lifter preload check and shim as necessary.