Yep, at the same point myself. Cant believe I spent $200.00 for OME part not too long ago & it's broken already (warranty expired about a month ago on that part), but I can't think of anything else. Going to try an after market part this time as they are about 1/2 the price. It will be easier to sallow if I have to go through this again...

 

Why not rebuild?

I have not done it yet, but I did order the washers(one way to rebuild) and the slim bearings(another way to rebuild).

The washers were on back order so it took a few weeks. I can send you a set or 2.

Let me know.

 

Had the same problem.

Solved it by replacing the power and return wire to the vss. Made my own harness, spliced into oem harness at fuse box and dash, replaced with a twisted pair of wires. 40,000 miles later, still no problem.

 

I think this also but try a used vss?

 

Did you test the vss to decide it was the harness?

 

First I bought a "used but good" vss (original was full of oil), problem persisted. Then I bought a new vss, problem persisted. Checked the connector at vss both times was ok, 12vdc across terminals with key on engine off. I tested the vss each time (3 times) and all three worked when spun manually. Of course, I could have set up an oscilloscope and tried to capture the pulse when driving, but the failure was intermittent, and mine would make the speedo jump all over, sometimes enough to cause a misfire/vehicle speed limiting to become active.

I have to troubleshoot this type of thing at work, therefore when at home I am lazy and tend to throw parts (if they are cheap) first...if that doesn't work i go to work.

I had this type of problem before where poor connections would cause noise on pulse signal lines. I looked at RAVE and found several connectors and splices on the wiring going to/from vss, which on the car is rather inaccessible. So, I built and installed another harness, and ran the harness through an existing bulkhead plug down to the vss connector, re-used the vss connector spliced into with the new harness via heat-shrink butt end connectors (marine grade). Then I pulled out the fuse box, cut the wire and spliced into the new harness for the feed, and did the same at the instrument cluster harness connector.

Like I said, 40K miles and a few years since, no further problems.

 

Brit cars are notorious for crap wiring, look at the wire and insulation they use, very easy to crack the insulation in bad cold and get the wires corroded bad under it, or a spot where someone probed the wiring and caused the same