Ignition switch...
#1
#3
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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I have used a few different things. The powered Graphite works fine as do WD40 or PB Blaster Lubricant, and there a few others similar sprays. CRC Contact cleaner works well also.
The main thing with the key is to go gently and ue finesse as both the key and the internals wear. IF YOU JAM THE KEY IN AND USE FORCE, IT WILL TWIST OR EVEN BREAK.
I ended up taking the plastic shroud off of mine completely and you can see the action and develop a feel for it as well. It sort of has a spring-loaded feel. I push mine in then slightly jiggle it forward without forcing it. If you bottom it out too much in depth it will not turn.
I can feel mine either work or resist. Also the steering wheel lock being on can affect it. You may have to slightly pull the steering wheel to lessen that resistance. I turn mine only one position forward at a time. Zero to one, then one to two, then two to three to start.
I do not let anyone else forc it as they do not tend to treat it gently. Force = Problems with this aspect of the Discovery.
The main thing with the key is to go gently and ue finesse as both the key and the internals wear. IF YOU JAM THE KEY IN AND USE FORCE, IT WILL TWIST OR EVEN BREAK.
I ended up taking the plastic shroud off of mine completely and you can see the action and develop a feel for it as well. It sort of has a spring-loaded feel. I push mine in then slightly jiggle it forward without forcing it. If you bottom it out too much in depth it will not turn.
I can feel mine either work or resist. Also the steering wheel lock being on can affect it. You may have to slightly pull the steering wheel to lessen that resistance. I turn mine only one position forward at a time. Zero to one, then one to two, then two to three to start.
I do not let anyone else forc it as they do not tend to treat it gently. Force = Problems with this aspect of the Discovery.
#4
astro-glide
DO NOT spray liquid lubricants into lock cylinders. That includes the ignition switch, exterior door locks or any tumbler mechanism. The liquid holds dirt / dust or even worse can dry up after time and leave a sticky residue which will make you problem worse. This causes the small tumblers to stick or hang up and will cause excessive wear (shortening the life) or simple failure.
Use a dry graphite powder / dust to lube the part your key goes into.
Or not.... it is your car after all.
Use a dry graphite powder / dust to lube the part your key goes into.
Or not.... it is your car after all.
#5
Use oil or WD40 at your peril
I just fixed my 03 Disco 2 ignition switch after it got sticky then refused to turn at all.
What I found was that liquid lube of some sort had been used at some time(s) and had mixed with dust and debris to clog the lock tumblers making them stay in the locked position even though the key was inserted.
I had to remove the assembly and dismantle the lock barrel assembly.
Check out the following link which has great description and pictures to assist with taking it out and dismantling.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ock-fix-35422/
I was able to clean out the gunk that had formed but be careful that the tumblers and springs don't fly out. I used methylated spirit to clean it then assembled it dry.
To replace the plug, I was unable to salvage the old one, I tapped a 6mm thread in the casing and used a grub screw with thread lock so it won't move
My thanks to "Arm and hammer" for the instructions and pics
Bob
I just fixed my 03 Disco 2 ignition switch after it got sticky then refused to turn at all.
What I found was that liquid lube of some sort had been used at some time(s) and had mixed with dust and debris to clog the lock tumblers making them stay in the locked position even though the key was inserted.
I had to remove the assembly and dismantle the lock barrel assembly.
Check out the following link which has great description and pictures to assist with taking it out and dismantling.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ock-fix-35422/
I was able to clean out the gunk that had formed but be careful that the tumblers and springs don't fly out. I used methylated spirit to clean it then assembled it dry.
To replace the plug, I was unable to salvage the old one, I tapped a 6mm thread in the casing and used a grub screw with thread lock so it won't move
My thanks to "Arm and hammer" for the instructions and pics
Bob
Last edited by bobatlcpmbdx; 04-04-2012 at 04:20 AM.
#6
#7
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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One thing I have found helpful with mine is the removal of all the plastic housing and some of the other non-critical pieces such as the little red light and the holder for it.
I basically have mine down to the baremechanisn and you can see the little differences as to how it acts based on how you jiggle, push, wiggle and finesse it.
With all the wear that exists, each one is going to have its own feel. None will be exactly alike.
If you ram it in and quickly twist it or force it, you can expect it to eventually break or at least twist and weaken the key.
It has four distinct positions, Zero being off and locked, 1 steering unlocked but ignition still off, 2 is ON and 3 is Start.
The engagement of the steering lock can make it difficult to transition quickly from 0 to Start. However, a smooth entry (it feels slightly spring loaded) followed by a smooth turn to position 1, followed by another definitive smooth transition to position 2 will energize the fuel pump for 5 seconds, followed by a gentle movement to position 3 will result in it firing right up with mine.
I have seen other stories of people having their only key either broken by someone else like at a tire store, or their friend or wife, or themselves when they were in a big hurry and they HAD to force it. One fellow even broke the steering linkages in his from violently snatching the steering wheel to and fro.
Sometimes you may have to **** the steering wheel to assist it in unlocking. Even though others may not agree with what I have used on mine, it has worked fine. I do advocate having spare keys cut if you only have one key and it is worn.
Have fun. Also a few of the used parts guys on here do have replacements available if you choose to go that way.
I basically have mine down to the baremechanisn and you can see the little differences as to how it acts based on how you jiggle, push, wiggle and finesse it.
With all the wear that exists, each one is going to have its own feel. None will be exactly alike.
If you ram it in and quickly twist it or force it, you can expect it to eventually break or at least twist and weaken the key.
It has four distinct positions, Zero being off and locked, 1 steering unlocked but ignition still off, 2 is ON and 3 is Start.
The engagement of the steering lock can make it difficult to transition quickly from 0 to Start. However, a smooth entry (it feels slightly spring loaded) followed by a smooth turn to position 1, followed by another definitive smooth transition to position 2 will energize the fuel pump for 5 seconds, followed by a gentle movement to position 3 will result in it firing right up with mine.
I have seen other stories of people having their only key either broken by someone else like at a tire store, or their friend or wife, or themselves when they were in a big hurry and they HAD to force it. One fellow even broke the steering linkages in his from violently snatching the steering wheel to and fro.
Sometimes you may have to **** the steering wheel to assist it in unlocking. Even though others may not agree with what I have used on mine, it has worked fine. I do advocate having spare keys cut if you only have one key and it is worn.
Have fun. Also a few of the used parts guys on here do have replacements available if you choose to go that way.
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