Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

Low battery and P1316 (misfire)

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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #21  
LRD2&ME's Avatar
Winching
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From: Oklahoma; where the winds come rolling down the plains.
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You have clarified it for me, thanks. Done with Land Rover, Done with the attitudes on this forum. And by the way. You have consentrated so much effort on me, your all mighty attitude forgot the one in need of help. Whom I was reaching out to with whatever I had. Yeah all my effort to help others with regulator rollers, TPS, Steering gear box ETC. ETC can now be put to use somwhere else. I'm done. 99D1 for sale.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 07:16 PM
  #22  
Cosmic88's Avatar
Winching
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From: Swampy Sandbar, USA
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You're selling the "secret" Rover? That gives a whole new meaning to "classified ad".
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #23  
Danny Lee 97 Disco's Avatar
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From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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Cosmo, my friend, I for one do appreciate your assistance with the issues I have run into on my Discovery. I had purchased the RAVE CD about 4 years ago when I first bought my Discovery. I used it pretty extensively, printing out the majority of it and cataloging it into a few various binders in a fashion similar to the documentation I was accustomed to on the Cruise Missile Program. I had the parts breakdown in one binder, the ETM in another, the maint manual in another all cross tabbed for easy quick reference while working on my 97DI.

I even made up work orders for myself by printing the specific pages, marking then up with additional items like socket sizes, printed items from various other websites, forums, and such. Kept up with what I had done along with receipts to make my own maint log.

I just this past week redid my download and was pleased with the improved Electrical T/S Manual. Now with that and your detailed explanation and taking the time to actually read the Intro and other material, I do plan to work my way thru mine and do some improved wire routing and replace some of the older wiring that has degraded somewhat as well as eliminate some of the unused wiring bundles like the rear A/C and the Heated windscreen wiring and other such since I do not have any of that present and will be working on things like Alpine window corrosion, various pther corroded areas and have removed all carpets, headliner, dead CD changer and factory head unit and rear speakers and amp, and a few other items as well.

I agree with you concerning any unreliable advice profferred herein.

The original member that was having problems should also have someone review her major ground connections to determine if they may be part of her problem.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 11:34 AM
  #24  
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Three Wheeling
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From: St-Pacome, Quebec
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Originally Posted by Cosmic88
Batiscan...Also, if your battery is down to 10V it would be best not to jump it and run the engine. That could burn the charge circuit in your alternator. Better to charge it overnight with an external charger.
Thanks for the advice. I did not do that the first time since I was in a hurry but I did switch the battery the next day for a freshly charged one (I bring a marine battery when I drive out in the bush to power the lights in the camp. It also serves as a backup). The depleted one now shows 12,6V after charging. I will test it and see if it's still good: if so it means I have some slow leak...

As to the idling problem, I suspect that the rapid on/off clicking that occurred when I tried to start the car with 10.5 V may have caused the plunger of the IACV to cycle and stick in its end of travel position, cause it's all back to normal.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 12:09 PM
  #25  
Danny Lee 97 Disco's Avatar
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From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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The clicking was most likely the solenoid attempting to engage the starter with the flywheel. Alow voltage battery is insufficient to engage the solenoid/starter properly.

Do not assume it has anything to do with the IACV.

Take the vehicle to a parts store that will perform a free test on the battery and the charging system.

Or put a meter across the battery and see what voltage reading you get with the engine runnung. S/B around 14 volts or so, I think.
 

Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; Jul 17, 2011 at 06:25 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 08:16 PM
  #26  
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Three Wheeling
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From: St-Pacome, Quebec
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Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
The clicking was most likely the solenoid attempting to engage thw starter with the flywheel. Alow voltage battery is insufficient to engage the solenoid/starter properly.

Do not assume it has anything to do with the IACV.

Take the vehicle to a parts store that will perform a free test on the battery and the charging system.

Or put a meter across the battery and see what voltage reading you get with the engine runnung. S/B around 14 volts or so, I think.
True. The loudest clicking was the solenoid trying to engage the freewheel. But It had an effect on the whole electrical system: My Scangauge II was flashing on an off at the same rate, and it looks like other devices had this strobe effect (the IACV should be activated when starting). The reading on the scangauge before trying to start was slightly over 10V. It reads 13.7 with engine running. The fresh battery I put in shows 12.6 before starting the engine.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 06:30 PM
  #27  
Danny Lee 97 Disco's Avatar
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From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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Have you checked the conditions of the Battery to chassis and the starter to chassis ground terminals?

If they are the originals and they show corrosion that may be a major part of your problem.

I am currently replacing all of those cables with some excellent ones made a member of our forum Antichrist. He custom builds the power and ground cables to meet our needs at a great price for their outstanding quality.
 
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