So sorry I haven't been on lately. I've had a great deal go awry with Rex, but I'm saving up to have him brought back up to speed. (The fuel pump went out)

I successfully got my keys out and couldn't get Rave to operate correctly. Thank you Spike555 for your sage Rover handling instructions. This summer will be spent fixing Rex (I bought him off of Craigslist and he looked like he was in good condition but we soon found a slow oil leak, squeaks in the engine block, windshield reservoir leak, tires were cracked, the anti-lock system acts weird and kicks my break back out at me sometimes, probably need new brakes, all but one speakers were blown with the exception of the front tweaters, and possibly a tune up). I saw the maintenance list and I'm slowly making my way up to getting all of them checked off.

I know it sounds really bad, but the gent has been holding up pretty well aside from the fuel pump problem.

Thanks again!

 

[quote=Spike555;223516]That beep was your neutral warning for the transfer case, when you shift the transfer case into neutral a buzzer goes off to warn you that you are not in gear and even putting the transmission in park the truck will roll away.
With the transfer case in neutral you cannot remove the key.
The guy at Discount Tire does not know his head from is butt.
The truck is full time four wheel drive.
Yes you need to use the CDL once a month to keep it from seizing up.
But DO NOT drive it on dry roads with the CDL locked.
There is a light on the dash that comes on when the CDL is locked.[/quote]

Not completely correct:
If and only if the plunger on the CDL Switch has not frozen up as well. If the CDL switch malfunctions the light will never engage. My linkage was frozen from corrosion and water,mud intrusion from Previous Owners when I bought mine. Shifter would not budge, I removed the console, tore the entire CDL linkage apart, cleaned the top section first, it still would not move or engage until I placed a wrench over the nut in the middle of the CDL Selector plate and rotate it CCCW to loosen. As soon as I applied adequate force, the shifter moved and the CDL engaged. However, to get the light functional required replacement of the CDL Switch as well.

Do a search and you will find all the details previously documented on this forum. Go to Rover's North and look at the IPB for the drivetrain.

To see lots of pics, click on the link in my signature.

To download the RAVE, click on the link in a few of the other guys signature. Get the Zipped version.

Monthly shifting may help but if you tear it down and grease it like I did, it really is not necessary.

Good Luck with it.

 

If it is PRE-AEL, I strongly reccommend the ProLine Fuel Pump Assembly from Rover's North. Best 100 bucks you can spend on fixing the fuel pump, you get a plug and play drop in replacement for the whole thing.

 

Good point Danny. It took a bakers dozen times of engaging my CDL before the light on the dash came on.

Roybot-Pull the ABS pump fuse from the fuse box under the hood, that will take care of your brake pedal issue.

 

I used to drive a truck that had a two speed rear end. It shifted by lifting a red **** "UP" or pushing that red **** "DOWN".

You may call it splitting hairs, I just prefer to use the correct term to correctly describe the appropriate movement required to correctly operate the system.

If some one took you literally, they could spend a lot of time pulling "UP" or puishing "DOWN" instead of moving it fore or aft.

 

On mine the plunger was totally frozen and it would not come on at all.

The slow to react type condition is often due to the plunger eventually making the transistion. You could try removing it and spraying it good and checking with a meter across the contacts.

With my new switch, my light turns on or off ight away. The biggest problem is gaining adequate access to even remove that darn switch. I ended up cutting an access hole in the passenger's side of the tunnel to get to it, then patched that with an aluminum piece i formed and pop-riveted in place and sealed with Red RTV. True Redneck Engineering at it's best.

 

That's the pump I bought. It came in a box that said "allmakes" on it, with a rovers north proline sticker on top. So that makes me think it is the same pump that british pacific sells for $61.60. If I had to do a pump replacement in a pre-ael D1, I'd try that instead.

Land Rover parts, spares, Land Rover accessories - Search results for ESR3926

 

I like Rovers North, but man are their prices sky high, they dont return e-mails either.
But then again I only sent one.

 

yeah... on occasion they have something that's cheaper, or that no one else has. I think it's more fun to call them instead of e-mail, because the guy that answers the phone at Rovers North has an English accent. It just seems cool to order parts for my car from an actual British person. I usually check all of the major places because prices vary so much.