I have searched old threads and have seen some that are pretty close to my problem.....but I wanted to explain my situation and see what yall thought. Had my 97 D1 at shop getting brake booster put on, went to check on it and battery was dead. We jumped it, I drove it, parked it and restarted twice to make sure it would start when I came back to get it. Came back battery was dead (lights had been on the whole time) tried to jump it again and it wouldnt even try to turn over. After a hour of cleaning terminals and trying a new battery, we tried to jump it from the starter. It didnt want to start but did, it ran for about 2mins, but sounded terrible. It was missing and knocking bad and then died. After that it would barely try to turn over (only when putting jumper cables on starter) but never started. What do I do? I saw a post about dissconnecting battery cables and holding them together??......Im gonna try that and everything else Ive read. Any other suggestions would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!

 

Need to try again with a fully charged battery. Low battery volts can make strange things happen. On battery, big red cable already goes to starter. Black cable goes down to frame ground near the bottom of the radiator. Perhaps they disturbed a ground from engine block to frame, you can test that theory with a battery jumper cable from (-) battery to clean metal on the engine (like alternator case). Your low voltage could impact fuel pump, engine computer, multi-function relay (betwween engine computer and overflow bottle on passenger side fenderwall).

Got fuel pressure? - attach pressure gauge to shcraeder valve on the passenger side fuel rail. Looking for 32 - 34 PSI.

Low starter speed is uauslly from low battery volts and or bad cable connections, including the ground cable.

 

Don't know what you're talking about "disconnecting battery cables and holding them together". Could be scary depending on what it is exactly.
When you were cleaning the cables did you make sure the earth connections where they connect to the chassis, engine/starter?

In one of the threads I posted a photo of the condition of the actual cables (not the terminals) on my wife's '97 when we bought it. very corroded.

 

Thanks for the replys. There was a post that described similar situation and said that holding the cables "demagnetized" something or another and let the computer reset.....Im not sure about it either, thats why i added it in my original msg to see if anyone would pick up on it. Its almost gotta be computer or something like that bc like i said, it was running fine and restarted twice after i ran for about 40 miles. But thanks again, any other suggestions will be appreciated. Im gonna try everything until it starts and i'll let everybody know what happens.

 

Look at the ground connection from the starter to the frame. Mine had corroded badly. AntiChrist (Tom Rowe) makes excellent replacement cables if you need a set.

 

If starter is not spinning at "normal" speed you expect, look for low battery and/or cable connection problems (corrosion, rust, loose, etc.).

If starter is spinniing at reasonable speed, check for spark (remove a plug wire, plug into used spare plug, lay on exhaust manifold, watch for spark. If no sparks, consider crankshaft position sensor or driver side rear area of engine.

If reasonable speed and spark, look at fuel pressure with a guage.

 

Touching the leads together will not demag anything nor will it reset the ECU.

A bad ground will give you intermittent starter issues. I know from personal experience on my 97 Discovery I Gems edition.

 

If anyone is interested, I got it to to start.....it was the alarm/anti-theft feature. Locked and unlocked the door 3 times with the key and started right up. Sorry took so long to post what worked......hope it may help. Thanks for suggestions, this forum has helped me several times.

 

Does not sound like you found the problem still, an alarm issue would not allow you to drive a bit and then die.
You need to go to the local parts store and have them do a charging system test, you must be between 13.6 and 14.4 volts.