Don't mean to highjack but I feel this info is important
The stalk switch has a weak spring pushing on the contact slider.
If the switch smells of bakelite (burnt plastic), it's on the way out.
-Remove the stalk switch
-carefully open the switch and clean up all that burnt lube (weak spring = poor contact = heat = burnt lube = contact gets worse with use)
-locate the tiny spring that pushes on the contact slider and stretch by 50% it present length
-relube the mechanism with vaseline (this also keeps the tiny parts in place during reassembly)
-reassemble the switch
-reinstall the switch on the stalk
you just saved $200

SD

 

Good info.

And if it's not the switch itself, it's the plug for it. Mine was loose and shorting out the switch every 6 months. Finally got tired of replacing the switch and found the plug all blackened. Turns out the female end was loose and the male wasn't always hitting the sides (think nasty ****). Squeezed the female down it's virgin tight now. Problem gone.

 

I had the problem repeat a lot worse on mine this week. Took it out, but could not get the damn thing apart without destroying it. I called Will Tillery The Rover Guy and spoke with him. He says the switch is bad. He got me a used one out that day for $55 shipped. It should be here tomorrow.

Son has been using the truck, he said he got it to work. I looked at it again last night, if you turned it really hard ,it worked, but when you turned it off, problem repeated. Did not know about the spring issue. Connector is slightly discolored.

Also saw them at another vendor for $95, not including shipping.

 

Danny, yep that's the symptom of a burnt out sliding contact "Son has been using the truck, he said he got it to work. I looked at it again last night, if you turned it really hard, it worked, but when you turned it off, problem repeated.... Connector is slightly discolored." The contact isn't smooth anymore and it "catches".

SD

 

New switch is here, just got to chase son away from truck and put it in.

 

I put in the switch I got from Will. It works great, problem fixed.

Took a few pics with everything off for those of you who have yet to have the pleasure of tearing into the steering wheel clusterf**k.
The first picture shows the old switch still in and the two connectors on it.
Second picture is with switch removed. Noted signs of overheating on the connector. You can also see the backside of the ignition switch with the ring of soldered contacts.
Third picture is the keyhole with covers removed.
Fourth picture shows a 3 amp fuse and a small inline connector that is part of the wiring under the bottom cover of the steering wheel cluster.
The last picture is the inside portion of the switch contacts from the old bad switch.

I did not like all the loose wires in the bundle and the possibility of damaging individual wires is high when working inside this area, so I retaped each group into smaller, well protected bundles to avoid pinching a wire while I had it disassembled so thoroughly.

My dimmer had also broken loose from the mounting points, so I enlarged that opening slightly to allow it to protrude more, cut down the broken mounting points and used a different mounting screw to reattach it.

Now my dash lights and tail lights all work properly again.