I finally realized the annoying sound coming from my engine had to be a liner(s) moving after the engine became warm. I decided if this was the case- why not try to pin them if the motor is on the way out anyway. I had no other signs of issues (overheating, coolant clean, not using oil, oil clean, oil psi good across temps etc).

Just that annoying knocking..

So... Pin the liners I went. Results:

Engine is quiet now, haven't heard them since. I did not feel like moving the motor mounts so I was able to pin 6 out of 8. It was completed with engine in the truck. Removed starter and dropped exhaust. Word of caution- it is difficult to seat the set screws to the exact depth. Lots of in/out checking. I opted to use thin lock washers on outside to make any extra depth less instead of cutting bolts over and over.

Here is the link I used:
http://www.landroverresource.com/doc...g_V8_Liner.pdf

Good luck! In my case it worked

 

How about some pix of yours?

 

Pretty good write up. Prob the source of the intermittent knock on my 94. Head gaskets are toast too. Guess the previous owner ran her hot in the past.

 

mine makes some bottom end noise, I would not call it a knock more like the piston skirt slap my dads avalanche has, I just figured it is noise from an aluminum engine

 

I'm parting the truck so I'm not going to fool with it. Just liked the write up

 

Very interesting and nice write-up. It makes me wonder how many D1s had this problem.

 

I unfortuantly did not take pictures along the way as I was a mess. (They say a good mechanic doesnt get dirty... I obviously am not one..)

I will get under the truck and snap a pic of the bolt locations and give a visual.

For those that are planning on doing this while in the truck:

-Drain oil
-D/C Battery (Remember radio code)
-Unbolt starter and hang to side. I did not have a heat shield.
-Unbolt exhuast from manifold down to muffler (Y pipe)/ Remove O2's if you want it off totally
-Used a right angle air drill from harbor freight (about 30.00)
-Drilled all cylinders except where motor mounts were. Link above on location of drilling.
-Tapped all holes with gear from link above. Ensure piston TDC on each drill run
-Physically put my hand in cylinder and judged thread depth. I noticed some where deeper than other depending on where it was drilled.
-Found it hard to keep cutting bolts, so used lock washers on outside to make up for depth.
-Applied red Lock tight
-Tightened down bolts/ ensured flush
-Wire tied them together for added protection from falling out
-Use caution as aluminum block is EASY to drill and EASY to mess threads up. On tapping.. use plenty of oil/ screw in about half turns/ screw out 1/4 turn then continue. Mine threaded great.
-While I had exhuast down, changed the tranny filter out also. If you do this you will need to remove the cross member also unless someone has found out a way to giggle the tranny pan out.


Filled everything up and runs like a champ... no noise.

Will attach a pic soon