Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

Plug Fouling 96 D1. All plugs.

  #121  
Old 01-10-2011 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by okdiscoguy
I am sure someone will slam this post, but replace these parts. It is a kit and something you can rule out. If the little crankshaft thingy is clogged, it does no good at all, better to just leave the hose off all together.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9205G.cfm

Replace all 3 parts and clean the holes so you know you have good flow.
.
Dont bother with this
 
  #122  
Old 01-10-2011 | 10:51 PM
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before you do that...you can donate that exhaust setup to me
 
  #123  
Old 01-11-2011 | 12:39 PM
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Sorry to read that you are having such a high degree of problems with it.

If you do decide to continue, You don't need to drop the tank to replace any of those fuel lines. All you have to do is remove the plate in the rear cargo area floor plate.

Sounds like a real helter skelter approach was taken overall, but I don't want to throw fuel on a fire that is already raging as I can see you are extremely frustrated with your ordeal.

If the vehicle itself is in that good a shape, maybe snatching that mototr and exhaust would be a good way to go.

Did you see the one on EBay where the guy replaced his engine with a brand new GM Vortec engine?

Or just go ahead and dump that miserable beast and be done with it.

You could go ahead and make sure the fuel lines are leaking real good and drive it a short distance and be ready to bail when it erupts into flames but that would be risking an insurance fraud case.

Did you see the new BMW burst into flames in Atlanta when the idiot driving it got it stuck in the snow and kept spinning the wheels until it befame a fireball? It was on the Today Show this morning. It was awesome footage.

Best Wishes to you, may the Rover Gods take mercy on you.
 
  #124  
Old 01-11-2011 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by okdiscoguy
I am sure someone will slam this post, but replace these parts. It is a kit and something you can rule out. If the little crankshaft thingy is clogged, it does no good at all, better to just leave the hose off all together.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9205G.cfm

Replace all 3 parts and clean the holes so you know you have good flow.

Make dang sure your knock sensor is seated properly. If someone used teflon tape, it isn't reading right. This will retard the timing and overfuel.

You seriously need to hook this thing up to a scanner and read the real-time live data.
I ran outside in the snow and looked. My hoses are new, but the plastic piece in the valve was stuck... tried to pull it out and sure enough broke it. It's completely plugged up. So I'll order a new one and get ready to pull that valve cover again to get the rest of the old one out and cleared. Till then I can run it if I need to unplugged. looking into the PCV system it does explain why the new valve cover gaskets leaked.

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, so I use a tire pressure gauge. (actually, I have a nice fuel pressure gauge, but don't have an end that will screw onto the rovers nipple.

Anyways, I ran out and check fuel pressure before starting the truck, didn't get any pressure. Started the truck and had at least 30, turned off the truck and again zero. I thinking that those ford 19# injectors I put in are leaking.

I did a new video of it yesterday...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G3D1TeUmUc

Can I reuse those new valve cover gaskets or are they a one time deal?

Went out to start it today so I could get into town and get some food, damn things fouled out the plugs again, so I have to have my mother in law drive out there from Chattanooga, take me into town to get a set of plugs and take me to the store. It's getting old...

Looks like I can get a full set of new original rover injectors for about 370. Still, I'm going to take mine over and have them pop tested and see if they where actually bad to begin with.
 

Last edited by ngarover; 01-11-2011 at 01:35 PM.
  #125  
Old 01-11-2011 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
Sorry to read that you are having such a high degree of problems with it.

If you do decide to continue, You don't need to drop the tank to replace any of those fuel lines. All you have to do is remove the plate in the rear cargo area floor plate.

Sounds like a real helter skelter approach was taken overall, but I don't want to throw fuel on a fire that is already raging as I can see you are extremely frustrated with your ordeal.

If the vehicle itself is in that good a shape, maybe snatching that mototr and exhaust would be a good way to go.

Did you see the one on EBay where the guy replaced his engine with a brand new GM Vortec engine?

Or just go ahead and dump that miserable beast and be done with it.

You could go ahead and make sure the fuel lines are leaking real good and drive it a short distance and be ready to bail when it erupts into flames but that would be risking an insurance fraud case.

Did you see the new BMW burst into flames in Atlanta when the idiot driving it got it stuck in the snow and kept spinning the wheels until it befame a fireball? It was on the Today Show this morning. It was awesome footage.

Best Wishes to you, may the Rover Gods take mercy on you.
I can't see the leaking hose from that plate. Already looked. RAVE says you have to drop the tank to get to it.

The approach to fix it was the best I could do with limited funds. I did what I had first. Or fixed things I knew I could fix myself with what I had on hand.

I missed the vortex powered rover... My guess is that the engine was too much for the drive train hence his selling it? Plus, your really not gaining any freedom from the computer, just moving to a different platform. It's another reason I really like the MB diesel. It's a pretty bullet proof, decent fuel milage engine with a crap load of low end. and not a single computer, or sensor on it. I could care less if it wouldn't be able to maintain 75mph, I hardly drive that fast now.

Missed the fireball.
 
  #126  
Old 01-11-2011 | 02:05 PM
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Valve cover gasket can be reused. Before you order the new separator.. You CSN remove the little metal peice from the valve cover. I have done it. You might bend it a little but I used a pair of channel locks and just turned and pulled. Then you can push the oil separator out and throw it away. It's not completely nessisary.

Only way to tell if it's your injector or fuel pump would be to prime the system: turn key clamp off soft gas line going to the hose and the turn off key, now check pressure if it looses pressure it is the injector or something past the clamp. If it doesn't loose pressure it may be a bad check valve. I day do diesel conversion just for the heck of it.
 
  #127  
Old 01-11-2011 | 02:14 PM
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wow...major major overfueling....i might have missed it..but have you checked the fuel temp sensor?

Coil packs?
 
  #128  
Old 01-11-2011 | 02:48 PM
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Shouldn't the 02 sensors tell it to chill the fk out?
 
  #129  
Old 01-11-2011 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Spencerfitch
Shouldn't the 02 sensors tell it to chill the fk out?
I would think... but I guess not. No CEL either.
 
  #130  
Old 01-11-2011 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by thehun
wow...major major overfueling....i might have missed it..but have you checked the fuel temp sensor?

Coil packs?
my understanding is the fuel temp sensor would only effect the truck at startup, the only real issue you might see if it was bad was possible hard HOT restarts. But once trucks running it really does nothing?
 

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