When I bought it I recall the po sayin not to roll down back window it might not go back up and there’s a fix just jump a wire but he never got around to it. I forgot about it and It finally happened to me. Luckily it eventually worked and went back up and upon testing this was the new normal: goes down, not back up but after some time it goes back up. Other doors seem to have no issues. I went to the forum and saw it was common to reflow the solder on mfu ( don’t remember seeing posts on jumping wires) went remove mfu and it came out easy since someone had placed a complete used unit and housing in the space between the old housing and radio amp. I thought the solder looked alright, (not like the example on a good video on you tube about it.) However, some points showed an amber discoloration so I went through and messed with soldering it. First time trying something like that. naturally, I plugged it back in and now both rear windows do nothing, fronts work. I go back to the forum and now I see two different hacks describing jumping wires. One was jump two pins on the same harness on the mfu. I can’t remember if anything seemed affected, I thought something clicking during the process of jumping or testing, bottom line, rear windows still don’t work. The other one described in a commercially available kit shows pictures of a harness on the left jumped to the mfu on the right. Seems simple but I couldn’t figure it out because I didn’t see any wires or harnesses with the right colors that looked like the photo. But also I get confused on what’s left and what’s right because some things are described opposite depending on drive configuration. Here’s a picture of under my passenger seat on right of my vehicle.

anybody got suggestions how to proceed? Also, I liked how the mfu was less a MF than it might’ve been but maybe it wasn’t great for it to be place up there rather than fastened. Admittedly it did fit pretty well and i thought it just didn’t get fastened til i realized the original cover was in the place where it should be fastened.

 

to see 'cold solder' joint, I use a 10x magnifying glass and a lot of light.
It is possible you solder bridge a connection and blew a fuse
a high quality solder sucker is worth its weight in gold for these type of jobs. I recommend 'Soldapullit' (blue with yellow button).
I would double check my work, possibly even redo all solder connections before trying a alternate

 

The solder used when the truck was 'new' does break down after it gets warm, then cold which causes the cracks and loses it's ability to pass a current. I fixed mine a number of times, then got a replacement one off Evilbay and went through it with a microscope that works with a phone or tablet so you can see up close if it is cracked. Then I installed it in the truck, using the old one as a spare once I went through it, I usually slide the circuit board out of the case and slide the replacement one back in without removing the plastic case.
Tried the jumper once and it didn't work for me so I fixed the board.

 

This may help

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...11/#post774813

 

I went to pull the board again and the wire terminal I pulled testing the jump fix was free from the connector, so I bent the little tab and got it to lock in place and tried the rear windows and they work now! I didn't do anything with that wire until after I reflowed the solder with no success. Hard to say what happened, it was days ago I messed with everything, including cleaning the switches but I know I tried putting known working switches on the rear first thing. Ill keep my fingers crossed I guess...