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Windows don't roll down

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  #1  
Old 03-05-2012, 09:55 AM
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Cool Windows don't roll down

Ok, i have been trying figure out why the rear windows just won't roll down 90% of the time sometimes they will but mostly they are stuck, I checked the motors they are good, the windows aren't jammed or anything, even checked and tried different switches. The wires are good did a test on those to, I remember hearign something about a controller or something that if it goes they no longer work but havent found much info on the subject. any suggestions out there?


1998 Land Rover Discovery (aka. The Green Devil)


Ok a friend at Texas Rovers showed me this http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/AMR1282RK.cfm?bc=ab a few minutes ago, going to give it a shot tonight as I have those connectors and supplies already in my wiring kit.
 

Last edited by txjag1023; 03-05-2012 at 10:04 AM. Reason: Update
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:07 AM
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search for "rear window ecu " it may be repairable or there is a by-pass repair
 
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:25 AM
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noooooooo don't use that kit, it's a waste. do the search like Xceller says.
 
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:56 PM
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looked at the kit, seemed a bit overpriced to me, had to put this on hold as I having some serious brake problems I have to figure out. for some reason they work for about 15 miles then slowly bind up to the point i cant move the vehicle, the pedal gets brick hard to.
 
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:58 AM
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Start with a complete brake flush, all four wheels, takes about 2 quarts of DOT4 fluid. You won't like the color of what comes out....
 
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:23 AM
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Have bled them, like 5 times now, no air or dark fluid comes out, crystal clear clean fluid. I am reallly thinking it is that strange looking master cylinder, they swear it works for that vehicle but I am skeptical.
The shop put the thing on before I hada chance to say no. But here isa picture of it.
http://ebay.alldiscountautoparts.com...s/10742944.jpg

Had to really hunt for it not to many pics of it
 
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:38 AM
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I had the exact same symptoms when I replaced my master cylinder with one from Rock Auto ... it'd go fine for a while, then the brakes would slowly clamp on all by themselves, pedal absolutely solid. And my replacement MC looked just like yours. I think the plunger on those is just a tad short, which slowly builds vacuum in the booster and slowly turns the brakes on.

Ended up springing for the genuine article, which solved all of the problems immediately. Didn't even need to bleed them again.
 
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by zappy
I had the exact same symptoms when I replaced my master cylinder with one from Rock Auto ... it'd go fine for a while, then the brakes would slowly clamp on all by themselves, pedal absolutely solid. And my replacement MC looked just like yours. I think the plunger on those is just a tad short, which slowly builds vacuum in the booster and slowly turns the brakes on.

Ended up springing for the genuine article, which solved all of the problems immediately. Didn't even need to bleed them again.
The genuine article has been ordered, I'm just ready to drive it again, even though gas prices are super high. I jsut rebuilt the top half of my motor and it sounds to good not to drive, thanks for the info, now to call the shop cause im pretty sure thats where it came from was rock auto i know i found a magnet of thiers in the parts box at the garage
 
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:27 AM
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