Too early to tell, but I'll check mpg. Seemed smoother. But it is basically the go fetch parts for broke Rover vehicle, not a daily driver. So what I like is use part of the can for the intake, and the rest in the gasoline. You can bet if I pop up way over 12 mpg I'll be posting.

As to real long term measure it with a micrometer benefits, probably just smooths out some of the quirks.

 

I just used the Sea-Foam induction cleaning kit. Comes with a small hose to insert in between the intake and TB and is a spray can. Followed the instructions and it worked like a champ with no ill-effects.

 

I understand Mike, I've just seen/heard many other stories of things going bad. I also never said the engine would "fail" due to the service. That's not to say it's a bad product or practice, I prefer not to do it and just want the OP to have all the available info. My point is, you can screw anything up if not careful, that pretty much goes for anything in life. If it ain't broke, why fix it?

 

I've seen everything from fouled sensors to broken rings on account of at home "induction cleaning". I personally have never fixed a motor that was locked from SeaFoam so I can only relate that to horror stories. That stuff was invented decades ago long before the fragile components and electronics of today came along so I don't care what any self appointed web expert says, its not good for todays engines. The point is that if your top end is dirty enough to cause problems, you need more than a can of solvent dumped into your intake.

Stuff like sea foam rarely causes catastrophic problems when used as directed, but its at the mercy of the user. The most common problem with all additives is sensor failure, some due to user error, some not. The bottom line is there is a right way and a wrong way to clean crud out of your engine. Most folks don't want to invest the cash or time to do it right so you end up with discussions like this. Whatever happened to do it right or don't do it at all?

To the OP
Put your top end in a box and send it to me after you "clean" it with Sea Foam. I'll show you all the crap you missed and finish the job the right way for free.

 

I have even seen a few horror stories on this site right here concerning damage after using SeaFoam. Not to say that it will always happen, but I certainly don't care to risk it myself and did not want to see a new guy jump in just because a few others always strongly recommend it. To me the potentail risk does not justify the potential reward.

But it's your Rover, do it IF you think you should.

 

Wow I didn't realize this was d-web or a way to attack members on this forum. Mike, most of us weren't rover techs, many aren't techs period. So when you read here on this forum for the past years, stories pro and con of DIY induction cleaning, it makes one take pause and wonder if it's worth it.

So I guess I really don't understand the need to "tear these guys apart". We're all here trying to help each other but I guess it would be futile to go to another forum as you're on pretty much all of them.

 

So Mike, did your guys have any kind of metering equipment or did they also use the cans like the ones sold at the parts store?

Like I said, I just can't justify the risks/rewards.

 

THIS IS THE PROPER WAY TO DO A INDUCTION CLEANING!!!!
This is what the shop is going to do if you have the shop do it, the kit can be bought at AutoZone for about $30 last time I looked into it.
I GUARANTEE a reputable shop will NOT suck SeaFoam into your intake through a vacuum line.

Shop 3M: 3M Intake System Cleaner Kit, 08962

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...Oa9_3rfuhc4wKg

I am going to do this on my truck and the wifes Volvo in the next few months.

 

Almost every time I've seen a damaged engine from a DIY induction cleaning is because the 'tech' let too much into the vacuum line and hydrolocked a cylinder, causing things to bend/break. If done correctly, it can do wonders for your engine(if needed).

 

Now that might just be an idea... instead of using part of that big old can it comes in, and maybe letting too much flow in there, go ahead and pour what you plan to use in the engine into a separate container, and induction that in. That way, you can't get excited and slurp in too much of it. One can of SeaFoam is good for like three treatments. You don't use the whole can.

And if we are not careful, while doing this we might slip on a big puddle of Lucas oil conditioner, and slop blue Oklahoma grade RTV (Ruin That Vehicle) all over the truck and glue the hood shut.