Today I took out battery, radiator , fan clutch, oil cooler hoses. Radiator going to shop for weld, and repair and cleaning In the morning. New oil cooler hoses to rid the worsened oil leak. Prepped front end for bumper removal tomorrow while I wait on tactical rover front bumper to arrive for winch mounting. Mounting a tuff stuff extreme 12500lb winch.

 

Well I took her to be inspected, she failed.

At high speed, rpm 2456( at 4th gear she's 1800-2000rpm)
HC(ppm): standard 220, current reading 215 pass
CO(%): standard 1.20, current reading 0.28 pass
CO2(%) 14.2
O2(%) 0.6
Dilution: standard >6.0, current reading 14.48 pass

At low speed, rpm 704

HC(ppm): standard 220, current reading 787 Fail
CO(%): standard 1.20, current reading 0.13 pass
CO2(%) 14.3
O2(%) 0.8
Dilution: standard >6.0, current reading 14.39 pass

What could be causing it to fail?

Just waiting on the state to send me my repair voucher($600) to fix it.

 

I have no idea what those numbers mean, sorry I cant be of some help.

 

Thanks, its cool.

 

Pressed off the old pinion bearings and installed new ones. A press makes things soooooo much easier.


Also tore down my stock diff. I really need to find a locker to toss in there because rebuilding a stock diff with 4.12's is going to be seriously lame.

 

BG engine flush and changed transmission fluid.

 

Refreshed the rear trailing arm bushings, tomorrow will be the front radius arms. I broke a newish Husky socket wrench trying to break the 24mm radius arm bolt free, so I gave up and did the rear. Wish me luck tomorrow.

 

That's why I only buy craftsman tools, just head to sears and its replaced no questions asked.

 

Heat the nut up. The nylon should melt out and make it easier to remove.

 

As requested, pictures of the Hyundai purge valve and replaced vacuum line:

https://i.imgur.com/2YTM4cU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3e21zvr.jpg

Please excuse the zip tie holding it in place. I've gone over a full tank of gas and no CEL...it's been running great.