Ditto. If you ever plan on taking your truck offroad you should have gone with a Heavy Duty setup from Lucky8. Lucky8 Llc. - Take the road less traveled...
This setup includes heavy duty rods, all new TRE' s, and a kit to relocate your steering damper from the stock location to a better more protected spot.

I'll also say that if you plan on offroafing your truck it would be a good idea to get acquainted with it, meaning do some work on it and understand how it works and what parts are where. Your trans shop isn't going to be able to help when you break down on the trail.
This is some good light reading. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...section-32402/
And download a copy of the RAVE manual.

 

Took the Disco back to the shop after having used transmission installed. It is shifting into high gear with a noticeable clunk. Also takes it up to 3200-3500 rpm to shift into high gear. They changed the fluid in it saying it just need to break in. Don't think so, nothing has changed, still doing the same thing!

Got the spacers installed on the rear now. Looks freakin awesome with the new 305's.

Also had the door handle assembly replaced with a new one so I can lock and alarm the vehicle now.

 

Wow, good thing this happened on a church day, lol...

I thought I had fixed an intermittent left rear brake light issue, but apparently not. So I removed the lens assembly, removed the bulb socket, made sure both filaments were good on the bulb, made sure the points were contacting metal at all three spots, put it back in, hooked up the wires, then went to test it. I wedged a scraper between the brake pedal and the front of the seat, went back to check, and neither side was on, or the third brake light. Tried the turn signals, they didn't work either. Wow, this is new, said I. Mind you, this is with the key turned all the way over, with the warning lights on the instrument cluster on, etc. When I turned the lights on, they all came on like they were supposed to, including the ones in the back, but again, no turn signals or brake lights. I tried the hazards, and they worked like they were supposed to. I checked the fuses (at least the ones in the one fuse box in the engine compartment on the passenger side), and they were fine. Just yesterday everything was working fine, except for the left rear brake light, so I'm stumped as to what happened now. Are there any other fuse boxes to check on this thing? The reason I'm asking is, I used to have a '95 XJ6, and that thing had FIVE fuse boxes spread throughout the car!

So I get in the truck, to take it around the block, to see if maybe something will reset itself or get bumped back into place, and I can't get the trans stick out of Park! WTF, said I! I pressed the button on the side, then try as I might, it refuses to move past Park. I removed the big plastic ring around the trans shifter, and saw what looks to be a silver rod of some kind, and a smaller, angled piece that has notches on it, that appears to go up to the stick. I'm guessing this is part of the problem, either it slipped out or dropped or something, and this is why I can't get it out of Park. So I guess I'm calling the trans shop tomorrow morning, telling them my tale of woe, and seeing what they'll do to fix it (dispatch a tow truck? send someone out to see if it's a simple fix? or?).

I know, I know, just part of the "fun" of owning a fine piece of British automotive engineering...

 

I'm going to try and cancel the Amazon parts, and order these instead. Quick question - on the Amazon parts, it looks like they have these pinch clamps on the ends, which allow for alignment and steering wheel adjustments, yes? These TF rods don't look like they have these pinch clamps, but have threaded ends, so I will still be able to do the alignment and center the steering wheel, yes?

 

The SEARCH function is your friend. Search for "can't shift park" and you'll find all you need.
It sounds like your brake light switch is bad, inhibiting you from shifting and causing no brake lights. Or the plunger might just need adjustment. A new switch is $20-30 from RovahFarm.com
HD steering rods use jam nuts to secure the TRE's. Adjust the TRE's and tighten the jam nuts.

 

Did the search function, found some posts that were worth reading. One said to remove the trim piece on the top of the shifter, and tighten the nut. I did that, but after putting it back together, it still didn't shift out of park. I took the trim piece off again, pushed the side button and watched the rod go up and down. Took the c-clip off, removed the half-moon spacer and button, and loosened the nut. I got it high enough to where the c-clip would just barely clip in. May seem counter-intuitive, but loosening the nut like this looks to give the rod the most amount of travel when you push the side button, so that's where I left it. During my fiddling around with this, the key got stuck and wouldn't come out of the ignition. I adjusted the height of the button on the rod, and got it to the point where the key came out. Still doesn't go out of park, no brake lights, no turn signals.

Which leads me to another post I read. Seems that if I don't have brake lights at all, my brake light switch is bad, which could be preventing the trans from going out of park, and possibly not having turn signals (altho hazards work fine).

Guess the brake switch is the next rabbit I'll be chasing. Good thing I have my '93 Explorer Sport, that thing's dead nuts reliable, unlike this British abomination...

 

Started prep work to bed line the floor, basically just used the rust oleum rust converter for the rust in the cargo area, gonna do the same to the rust on the front and middle floor next weekend then scuff, clean and roll it on

 

You know, sometimes it just doesn't pay to get up early on a Sunday and work on cars. I'm now right back where I was last night, but that's a good thing! See, now the truck will go out of Park, and my turn signals work, and my brake lights work, except for the driver's side. I know why the driver's side doesn't work, because the bulb socket and housing are melted at the 1 o-clock position, and despite attempts to gently bend the metal prongs on the socket, and the metal that they contact on the housing, it still doesn't work.

And the source of the frustration on my previous posts? A simple 15A fuse in the main fuse box below the steering wheel. Wanna guess which one? Yup, the one that's labeled for the stop lights and turn signals. I didn't know about this fuse box until I looked thru the pdf owner's manual. Once I found it, the first fuse I removed was this 15A, noticed it was blown, replaced it, and proceeded to check all the other ones. Once that was done, I started the truck and attempted to take it out of Park, and whaddaya know, it shifts like butter. Tried the turn signals, bingo, they work. Wedged the scraper between the seat and brake pedal, and the center and passenger side brake lights were on, but not the driver's side. That's okay, there's a perfectly good reason for that one!

Now to look for a driver's side rear tail light assembly...

 

I've got 2 of them if you need one. $25+ shipping. They are the solid red ones without amber. I have one with the amber but it has a small hole in it. $15 for that one.

 

Try the paperclip trick I describe at the bottom of page 1 here:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ut-park-45193/