I believe the rear steering rod only had an angled replacement piece and two small u-bolts, to put the new steering damper in the stock location. I guess my question still isn't clear. Forget about the passenger side of the steering damper. What I need to know is if they got the bracket piece oriented correctly for the driver's side mount of the steering damper.

Let me try this. If I'm looking at the bottom of the steering damper, should it not go damper bottom into angled bracket, then the "leg" of the bracket gets secured to the steering rod? The way it's on now is reversed, in that the "leg" of the bracket runs underneath the bottom of the damper, then the damper bolts to the angled piece, there's nothing behind it. Doing it this way, those u-bolts that go thru the "leg" piece are too long, and they touch and interfere with the very bottom of the damper body.

I may flip this bracket around tomorrow, just to see what happens. If anything, it will only compress the bottom of the damper by a couple of inches, but at least it will move those u-bolts to the other side of where the damper bolts to the angled piece.

 

IMO the L bracket is backwards, I find it hard to believe they would not include a relocation kit, stock mount area is not ideal to off road, damper gets beat up

 

Go to your local hardware store and get a piece of 1/4" thick flat stock. Drill three holes in it and mount it as such.

That's obviously on a right hand drive vehicle but you get the idea. Move the ubolt bracket to the drag link in front of the axle and mount your steering damper between it and the flat stock you bolted on the frame.

 

I never found the steering damper to make any difference, so out it went.

 

I think it helps more offroad to keep the wheel from spinning wildly when you hit a rock the wrong way. I run the RTC damper from TF which helps to center the 315/75's a bit.

 

So my alternator went out yesterday on our weekly trip to the river. Right before we got there the battery light came on and I lost Tach reading. As soon as I pulled up I popped the hood and started diagnosing. I figured it was the alternator but just wanted to be thorough. The 100A bmt alt. fuse was blown but it was only a 60A put there by previous owner I presume. I pulled 60A A/C fuse and when I tried to put on alt. connection the alt. began smoking. Obviously theres a short in it. Unfortunately the starter will not engage with the alt. fuse removed/blown. So I had someone hold the good fuse on connection long enough to engage the starter and prayed all the way home that the battery would hold. It did. so I had to pay full price at Oreilly for new alternator instead of finding cheap online because it's only vehicle in the family right now. When I picked up alt. today and replaced it and replaced fuse (70A cause Oreilly has no 100A, will be looking for that one) and lo and behold it worked. Yet I had no blinkers. I replaced front and side marker bulbs and now they work, however the rear still do not work and the bulbs are fine. So that will be another post for later, after I figure it out. Will be posting a question thread in a few minutes. HAHA

 

In a previous post, I put some pics of a utility trailer I just picked up, and towed it home with the Disco. Today I got it all legal at the DMV, and paid for a permanent plate. Also replaced the 205/65-15 tires on the trailer with 235/70-15 M&S type tires, which has a more agressive tread, gave it a little bit more ground clearance under the trailer as well. And last thing, I found a 30' braided cable that I used to lock up my motorcycle, so I did a slip knot around the tree in the backyard, and wrapped it a couple of times around the front frame, then locked it up. So with a lock on the coupler, and this cable/lock securing it to a rather large tree, I'll have peace of mind knowing that the trailer will still be there when I need it, lol...now I have to think of other things to mod on the trailer, like maybe some kind of exterior shelves to hold gas cans, tool box, emerg supplies (glow sticks, tow straps, duct tape, para cord, JB Weld, zip ties, MREs, water, flare gun, led lights, oil, coolant, brake and steering fluid, fuses, etc), spare tire, etc.

 

I hope you don't plan on taking that trailer off road at all. It is lowwwwww. Put taller leafs under it.

 

Preachin' to the choir, lol! It doesn't have springs, it's got a solid Chevy I beam axle underneath it, no springs or shocks. So, I occasionally have flashes of brilliance, and the next project for that trailer will be to flip the I beam axle. That will give me instant ground clearance, the only issue will be figuring out a way to keep the hubs from moving side to side. As it is now, the PO welded up some braces from the frame to the backside of the wheel hubs, to prevent them from moving. I would imagine it shouldn't take too much, once the axle is flipped, to keep those hubs from moving (welding something from the back to the I-beam itself?). There's a couple of trailer shops around here, so I'll hook up the trailer and start there for estimates.

 

If you take the dead hookers out of your truck you'll have a lot more storage space and won't need a trailer.