Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

So what did you do to your Disco today?

Old Sep 4, 2012 | 07:12 PM
  #691  
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I added some of Jake's second hand parts to my list of **** to install. And got my hella 500s
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 07:39 PM
  #692  
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Originally Posted by Jake1996D1
Rebuilt rear diff, had a little bit of play in pinion and was making some noise. Bearings looked fine, pattern looked fine, backlash looked fine.. Who knows.. So reset pinion preload and backlash at 10 thou hoping it will make it happy, we shall see!



Once that was done and back in the truck I tore into the 1.4 t-case. Need to clean it all up and get the bearings and seals. Here is a pic of the inside of the LT230 for those who have never seen the guts..



I'm going to pick up a LT77 and LT230. Not sure what I am going to do with the LT77 (maybe an Isuzu buggy?) as of yet but I believe the LT230 is a 1.4 as well..

Flushed and bled power steering pump again. This stupid chevy pump is annoyingly noisey. I put the expensive synthetic **** in there and it's still loud.... May go back to the ZF

Last but not least I'm about 90% on getting a Salisbury rear and re-building it with 30 spline D60 guts. Probably e-locker to match my future Toy hi-pinion plans for the front..

I'd go Toy rear but the Ring gear on a D60/Salisbury is 9 3/4" here's a pic next to a regular rover diff...



That is all I have!

Just for poop's and giggle's what are the part numbers for the bearings on the t-case and diffs?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 09:41 PM
  #693  
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I tore out the console and drilled out plates to access the top of my transfer case. Took apart my hi/low selector and fixed linkage, and made sure shift finger was good. Now I can get it to shift into low without linkage hitting side of T-case and popping into neutral.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 12:08 AM
  #694  
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Originally Posted by Spike555
Just for poop's and giggle's what are the part numbers for the bearings on the t-case and diffs?
Honestly I have no clue. I call Justin at lucky 8 and tell him what I need. I can tell you a kit for a diff is like $100.. GBR sells them for $160.. Ashcroft makes a master rebuild kit and it's like $200 but that includes 8 bearings Timken internals and NSK flange bearings as well as the seals, washers, spacers, crush sleeve and well pretty much everything except new gears and shafts.. Shim kits are like $50 but most companies include them when you buy a R&P.

Bearings are Fking expensive!! especially Timken stuff..
 

Last edited by Jake1996D1; Sep 5, 2012 at 12:11 AM.
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 12:45 AM
  #695  
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Making progress on my rig. Finished the lift a few weeks back, then over the weekend, installed a new Heavy Duty rear driveshaft and rotoflex to joint conversion. Also put in my castor corrected radius arms!

Next up - gotta fix the clunk that showed up after the radius arms were installed see my other post. I think I just need a sway bar drop kit.

Also on deck: steering damper relo, new tie-rod, drag link, and ends (rubber is split and cracked), then new tires BFG MT KM2 255/85R16.

Getting closer!
 
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 07:06 AM
  #696  
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Started the transmission filter replacement last night...what a b*tch...I used a generous amount of PB blaster the day before and during and still broke several of the bolts holding the crossmember in place. Its not moving around much without love taps from a sledgehammer. Fluid is drained and the pan is loose but its not coming out...the crossmember is still in the way. Gonna work on it here some more in a couple hours when the suns up.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 08:07 AM
  #697  
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Originally Posted by Nefarious79
Started the transmission filter replacement last night...what a b*tch...I used a generous amount of PB blaster the day before and during and still broke several of the bolts holding the crossmember in place. Its not moving around much without love taps from a sledgehammer. Fluid is drained and the pan is loose but its not coming out...the crossmember is still in the way. Gonna work on it here some more in a couple hours when the suns up.
Throw the bottle jack horizontally between the frame rails and gently open them up. That crossmember should be easier to move then.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 02:33 PM
  #698  
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Installing these tonight

 
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 03:15 PM
  #699  
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Holy **** Jake, those things are beefy! (That's what she said)
 
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 03:56 PM
  #700  
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Originally Posted by honda50r
Holy **** Jake, those things are beefy! (That's what she said)
Yes they are... 2.5 .250 wall and ballistic fab joints that are like the size of your fist.. Hopefully it will be a clean and easy install and they will work as good as they look
 
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