Fish,

This plate looks great and conjurs up all kinds of iddeas for me... Question: How are you going to secure this plate to the dash? Corner screws? And will you cut out the dash behind the plate to accomodate the backs of the switches or try to fit in existing holes?
Thanks, Tom

 

Tom, as you can see from the pic there are two round and one rectangular opening already cut out in the trim. For the most part I should be able to use these, maybe having to open the up a bit. To mount the trim I'll do one of two things. I'm going to try putting a large washer on my toggle switch and use the provided nut on the front of the switch to kind of sandwich the plate. The other option will be to use four screws into the plastic trim.

 

Well today I pulled my old rover diffs and axles so I could package them up and send them off. Then I pulled my exhaust manifolds so I can prepare my truck for the Janspeed headers I picked up.

I got a set of Nitro Gears for the rear differential I plan to install this week. Once that is set up I can finish prepping the rear axle for the new toyota third member and axles. Sent out my Rovertym drilled swivel *****, a new set of front and rear stub axles to Keith to be machined for the bigger axles. I am also on the look out for an FJ80 E-locker for the front. And now that I have the funds for it I hope to have one as soon as this week...

tested out my new rear links, and well, I am going to need some limiting straps and longer brake hoses.. This design uses every inch of the 12" fox shocks.



However that did make it easier to get off of the truck and onto the bench. Rover housings and hubs even with no axles and thirds are FREAKING HEAVY.

 

Did this a while ago, but just posted it on dweb, so might as well post here too:


Not bad eh

I highly recommend steel rivnuts. These are 1/4 in. If you look at the subwoofer area you'll see LR used rivnuts.

This is 50 thou 5052 sheet. If I did it again I'd use 63 or 80 thou.

The diamonds wouldn't allow the door handle face plate or any other accessories to sit flush either.

Hurricane bolts might look and function well too.

 

For the 1997 Disco 1 - I finally got my new vapor barrier for my drivers door - took the dealership 4 months to get the correct part (apparently, the warehouse had the right hand door mislabeled). Now I actually have a door panel back on my car (talk about a lot quieter!).

I also had a problem with the rear windows, took out the circuit board and found 1 joint to solder. Put it in for testing and everything worked flawlessly. Unfortunately, I din't put the board in quite right and had to take in back out. As I was trying to remove it, I broke off one of the resonator capacitors Now I need to order and resolder this part. In the meantime, the A/C will be working over time.

 

You could just bypass the Rear Window ECU and have them working again in 10 minutes.

 

Installed my QT rear diff guard. Word of advice...drill the 3/8x20 BSF threaded pinion holes and tap to 7/16x14 and replace with grade 8 hardware. I also pulled the old tie rod to replace with a HD QT bar. The stocker had a nice bow to it. Ran out of light on that one. Will have to finish that up tomorrow.

 

hi all i changed the bearing on the pully for the fad bellt
when a started it up the budgie had gone but not for long as it come back in 10mins worse than it was before i had done the job when a spray maintence spray on the belts it goes so im going to get some belt spray now and try that disco 300tdi

 

Whipped together some parts for a new spare tire HiLift mount. Still needs some paint and tweaking but I like it.

 

Jake...

Are those for a LHD 4.0? I read they need to be modified to fit!

Recently, I thought I had a cracked header. I looked under and found one of the three bolts missing, connecting the header to the down pipe.

I think I will be getting the HH's (Jet'd) and do the D2's Knock Sensor deal....seems to be the easiest to deal with.