Run extended bump stops with about 3-5" uptravel. Cut the fenders onto the first lip or get flares like I did. I have 10" fox in the front and 12" fox in the rear. I just sold my 3 link for RTE radius arms for highway driveability, Custom ballistic jointed rear links.. RTE castor corrected ***** etc. I may add 1" spacers at most to fit 37-38" tires later on.. Which 2" less lift that you have at 6"

I think the issue you should be worrying about is axles, I have seen HD rover axles twist and snap on 35's... If you're going to spend the $$ on HD rover stuff you might as well do the toyota conversion.. It's pretty much the same price when all is said and done..

Good luck!

 

I added a quart of oil to my truck today, Pennzoil 15w-40, got it super cheap, $2.50/qt.

 

I took mine to a ditch, crawled in and backup the other side at a good angle, pasenger side corner high, then ran at 3000 rpm for 3 minutes to flush out some air in the coolant. Ten mile trip afterwards temps more stable, no gurgle under dash.

 

Removed the factory CD changer, ran speaker lines from where it formerly lived under the passenger seat to the back door, all in anticipation of a future amp & subwoofer upgrade. Also added an extra pair of 4" speakers in the rear of the truck.

 

what flairs are they, or where can i buy them, they look good, do u have a guide for how much one can cut before the ruin the water seals ?

i have heard about this axle and diff issue , i would like a bullet proof rig but on a budget (as i don't care about looks for a off road rig) my uncle runs a junk yard, mostly newer trucks and suvs.
but is a Toyota my best and only option for the front?
was kinda hoping for bit wider front end to widen my stance a bit.
so is there an adapter kit or fabrication guide to hook up a heavy duty big truck front and rear end. like from a f250 or 2500hd or like a full size bronco ?
i know there is going to be chopping and cutting and fitting to get it driving right, but that where Perry McNeil come's in hes the expert , i just love to drive and get the ideas going

 

Flexi flares Justin at Lucky 8 sells them. I did the Roving tracks Toyota conversion because it fits in the rover housings and I already had money into radius arms, trailing arms, brakes etc.

Also what's nice about the Toyota conversion is the axles maintain a ton more clearance that a D60 or 14b.. Hence you have to run like 38s to get the same clearance as 35s. If I were you I would try to find and Fj80 with e lockers and put them under your truck. They have a 8" ring gear front with a pretty big pinion and much larger Birfields or cvs as we call them. The rear is a 9.5" ring comparable to a D60 at 9.75".. Link it front and rear with proper geometry.. And you'll be set for serious ****

 

I changed out my transfer/parking brake boots and mounted my UltraGauge. Getting new tires and installing an OME suspension the next few days. Plan on taking out the shopvac and taking care of the interior tomorrow.

Oh, and I "installed" a Febreeze air freshener .

 

Got a little cut happy with the angle grinder. Now all I need is a set of 285/75 MTs!

 

Swapped out 5" springs for 3" springs, got the rear axle and rear links put back together.. Need to finish on the exhaust and get some new hangers to weld up.. Also waiting on gears for the rear diff and pinion flange to finish that up..

Here's a pic of the progress..

 

so if i found a Toyota fj, can i take the whole front and rear end housing? is there drive shaft adapters for my gbr drive shafts ? and would i want any other parts from the donor fj( tho there kinda rare in junk yards so far) but ill keep an eye out at the auctions.. and on the flares i will order them soon, and install them when i get time.
also waht about breaks , i would assume that the fj might have better breaks ? and then the wheels i asume i would need from an fj is there any better selection of low cost rims ?