spring spacer question
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 41
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spring spacer question
Hello,
So I've installed a 2" OME suspension kit (springs + shocks) and I'd love to somehow add another 1-2 inches of lift. I do have a body lift kit, but have doubts about installing it. Would it be possible to get another 1-2 inches by adding spring spacers on my setup? From what I understand, is that I can only have total of 2" inches, anything above that needs other parts changed as well. Could someone explain what else would be necessary?
So I've installed a 2" OME suspension kit (springs + shocks) and I'd love to somehow add another 1-2 inches of lift. I do have a body lift kit, but have doubts about installing it. Would it be possible to get another 1-2 inches by adding spring spacers on my setup? From what I understand, is that I can only have total of 2" inches, anything above that needs other parts changed as well. Could someone explain what else would be necessary?
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 227
From: IL
Over 2" and the geometry really starts to change.
- front radius and rear trailing arms are pushed down further causing bushing bind at the frame. Cranked arms corrects.
- as you push the axle down the pinion angles change on your diffs. The rear is typically Ok, but the front causes issues. Cranked radius arms can somewhat help, but a Double Cardan driveshaft is what is really needed. The D1's were borderline needing a DC front shaft from the factory but because Rover was cheap the just set the ujoints out of phase instead. All D2's came stock with a DC driveshaft.
- Castor is off. As you push the axle down the plane in which your wheels turn changes. If the plane from factory was 100% horizontal, the more you lift with springs or spacers the more it will move towards vertical. So if stock is 100% horizontal, 2" lift may be 90/10, horizontal/vertical. 3" may be 85/15 hor/ver, and so on. Some cranked radius arms will help this but the real solution is getting the swivel ***** redrilled. What you'll notice with Castor and more lift is the steering wheel returns to center less on its own.
- As you push the axle down the arms pivot on the frame, and the wheels are moved closer to the middle of the truck. It looks weird, causes sheetmetal issues, and handling changes some. Cranked arms are also usually longer and/or adjustable.
- Because there is a panhard rod on the front axle, when you push the axle down it also swings to the driver side. An adjustable panhard rod fixes this.
- Stock flexible brake lines will need to lengthened. Most aftermarket lines are +2". If you have more lift or really long travel shocks you'll need custom length brake lines. Paragon Performance makes nice ones.
My advice: Run the tires on the lift you have. Drive your truck on some of those driveway ramps from PepBoys, one at the front right and one at the rear left(cross-axle your truck). See where your tires will rub if you offroad it. I'm 99.9% sure the only problem you'll have is on the rear quarter panels. Make a template and do a "camel cut" on each side. Do a good job, not some hack job. If you make a good template and blend it well it looks factory. If you just eyeball it I'll probably be able to tell. Don't use a Sawzall, use and angle grinder.
Whereabouts in Chicagoland are you?
- front radius and rear trailing arms are pushed down further causing bushing bind at the frame. Cranked arms corrects.
- as you push the axle down the pinion angles change on your diffs. The rear is typically Ok, but the front causes issues. Cranked radius arms can somewhat help, but a Double Cardan driveshaft is what is really needed. The D1's were borderline needing a DC front shaft from the factory but because Rover was cheap the just set the ujoints out of phase instead. All D2's came stock with a DC driveshaft.
- Castor is off. As you push the axle down the plane in which your wheels turn changes. If the plane from factory was 100% horizontal, the more you lift with springs or spacers the more it will move towards vertical. So if stock is 100% horizontal, 2" lift may be 90/10, horizontal/vertical. 3" may be 85/15 hor/ver, and so on. Some cranked radius arms will help this but the real solution is getting the swivel ***** redrilled. What you'll notice with Castor and more lift is the steering wheel returns to center less on its own.
- As you push the axle down the arms pivot on the frame, and the wheels are moved closer to the middle of the truck. It looks weird, causes sheetmetal issues, and handling changes some. Cranked arms are also usually longer and/or adjustable.
- Because there is a panhard rod on the front axle, when you push the axle down it also swings to the driver side. An adjustable panhard rod fixes this.
- Stock flexible brake lines will need to lengthened. Most aftermarket lines are +2". If you have more lift or really long travel shocks you'll need custom length brake lines. Paragon Performance makes nice ones.
My advice: Run the tires on the lift you have. Drive your truck on some of those driveway ramps from PepBoys, one at the front right and one at the rear left(cross-axle your truck). See where your tires will rub if you offroad it. I'm 99.9% sure the only problem you'll have is on the rear quarter panels. Make a template and do a "camel cut" on each side. Do a good job, not some hack job. If you make a good template and blend it well it looks factory. If you just eyeball it I'll probably be able to tell. Don't use a Sawzall, use and angle grinder.
Whereabouts in Chicagoland are you?
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