We rebuilt my 1996 Discovery engine using the Rave Rebuild Manual. We have completed the rebuild and are having difficulty getting the engine to fire. Oil is circulating. Fuel in in the rail but pressure has not been measured. We can crank and start the engine fires but it quits after 2 or 3 seconds. My OBD2 scanner produces an ERR message, suggesting there may be an ECU problem. I need a step-by-step procedure for checking out most likely causes for our not getting sustained firing.

 

Check simple things like MAF sensor plugged in good, etc. Please post codes from scanner, text messages often vary in meaning from one brand to another. Use a tire gauge to measure fule presure (32-34 PSI).

 

I could not use the scanner.

 

Hey bud.

Your getting an ERRor on your scanner due to a blown fuse on power lead going to the Data Link Connector (OBDII connector). Fuse F3 10 Amps in Satellite 2 under your steering wheel.

Sensors can be found in the Fuel System - SFI (Sequential Fuel Injection) portion of the Workshop Manual in the Rave. You'll be checking them to make sure they are connected.

Once your sure you have all the sensors plugged in make sure you have three wires connected to your alternator. Large gauge wire is obvious and then one with a ring terminal and the other with a blade connector. Easy.

After that's checked try starting again and hold your foot on the gas pedal just enough to crack open the butterfly, should fire right up, might idle rough until parts are lubed and air is out of fuel lines.

If your still having any issues think back to when you changed the timing chain (if you did), did you index the gears?

Good luck.

 

I have followed the advice about fuses and checking sensors. I find that I have a crankshaft sensor condition. Cause may be a bent flywheel fin. The pin on my sensor had a relatively deep groove 3/8" from the end and 1/8 from the base of the pin. We now need to examine the fins. Any advice on straightening them and measuring gaps. Crazy problem likely associated with installing and tightening the four flywheel bolts.

 

There have been photos posted looking up via the inspection plate, and the teeth on the reluctor disk are quite visible. They are a series of tabs stamped and folded up from the metal. Like every six degrees. There is a factory built "missing " one to provide a sync index for the ECU. Some times they are bent and some steady hands have posted about how they have carefully brought them back to alignment. Long noose pliers, etc. One member even had a skilled welder re-attach one or two in the truck without pulling tranny. Others have posted about replacing that reluctor disk whenever the tranny is out.

A bent tip on the CKP sensor is an indicator, and I'm not sure you would have absolute success remolding the tip in the position Rover expects it to be in. Metal fuzz on the tip is also a problem, it weakens the signal generated. The main spacer block comes in two thickness if I recall, one for auto, and one for manual tranny; so might be a built in depth issues with the parts swapping rodeo. The tip is like millimeters away to generate the signal.

Good luck.

 

I wasn't careful enough when I was doing my tranny swap due to the tight spaces i ended up bending a few. I think it was a 13 or 14mm socket was the same width as the pins were supposed to be so I used that as a guide to straighten it out.

worked well so far

 

I want to thank you all for the advice along the way. I am embarrassed to report that I did not expect the fuel pump to be the cause of my starting problem. I had an overheated engine and expected something on the engine to be the cause. When all checks were exhausted, only the fuel pump remained to be changed. I changed it and the Discovery started. End of the saga.

 

Good ending is a good ending. Who cares if we all got it wrong?