Ummmm yes, I tried the procedure in the rave..... It worked for the initial test drive after replacing it. But at startup next time it idled high @ about 1800rpm..... So I followed the sheet instructions in the box and that seemed to have worked....I think or maybe not as it only idles good when it feels like it..lol

 

If my problem turns out to be a bad alternator, is there a swap/conversion for our 95 D1's? I read somewhere on the RRC, someone used a GM alt conversion...Helluva lot cheaper than a OE.....Whatcha know?...........BTW, appreciate all the suggestions and tips people. I'm gonna try and nip this as soon as I get a dry day.....

 

If it was a dead alternator you wold not be driving too far before battery would die. If it is a weak alternator (one or more diodes gone inside) it won't keep up the voltage as normal loads increase, Need to be able to charge battery while AC, fan, wipers, and headlights are on. Might be other wire connections that need cleaning, so test voltage from negative battery post to positive post, to outside of positive clamp, to various fuses and wires in the under hood fuse box. Ask yourself - if battery reads 13.8 volts, why does a wire connection in the fuse box read 12.1, just a few inches away? Connections need to be clean and tight. I had a problem with a vehicle that read 14.1 at the battery when running, and less than 12 volts at the cigar lighter on the dash inside the car. All kinds of gremlins result from lower voltage.

Have seen posts on the web for conversions. You may also consider having alternator rebuilt by local shop (or DIY), normally it is brushes and regulator / diodes. Alternators from auto parts stores tend to have a high failure rate, keep receipts. Good used ones from dismantlers or individuals parting out are a source. Salvage yard is OK, but you will need to test, and may need to rebuild. On line prices are up there, but stealership adds on the bonus for the owner's kids college fund...