well I just did my shocks today, it went well with the exception of one stuck bolt (a little heat and a good set of vise grips finally got it free!). Now my next step is to tighten up the preload on the swivels. I am really at a loss as to how I should go about this as I am not sure how the upper pin was designed, I figured replacing the pins was the way to go but all the info I am finding just tells me to remove a couple shims until the tension is correct. I don't want to go through the effort to adjust the shims and then have to do this again within another year, but at the same time I don't want to replace the pins if adjusting the shims will prove sufficient for say the next couple years. I would like to believe the swivel pins were designed to last at least 200K(of on road use) with possibly an adjustment or 2 in that mileage. I plan on getting started with this monday morning so all input on this subject is greatly appreciated!

 

its the shims and the bearings that wear out

 

Most likely your pins are fine... but that requires a visual. This is a fairly easy procedure and PLUS, how often do you get to use a fish scale on your truck?

The following is ONLY if you are replacing seals, bearings, etc...

Since I'm sure you've already gone over the FRONT AXLE AND FINAL DRIVE section in the WM (pages 5 - 12) I'll just point out one personal preference which differs from the WM. Once you have performed the initial pre-load test without seals, grease, etc... I like to perform the test again WITH everything assembled (minus steering linkage and rod ends of course). Just in case something goes wrong during final assembly. Naturally the resistance will increase at this point but barely.

For your case the main thing to remember is, "once the initial inertia has been overcome" is a very important part of the measurement. You are primarily measuring the resistance in the full range motion from lock to lock... not the force required to get the whole thing initially moving. So since you're probably just disconnecting the steering linkage keep in mind your resistance measurements will be a tad bit higher than the WM figures of 1.16 to 1.46 kg. Definitely less than 4kg... Also, if adding shims does not help lower the resistance then you're most likely looking at replacing the top and / or bottom bearing(s).

 

You can just remove shims as a temporary fix, but count on needing to do it again before long. If you're in there and you have the time/money I'd do the rebuild kit.

 

I don't want to replace any seals or bearings because nothing in there that I can see is leaking or loose (except the steering) and you can really only notice that while driving, grabbing the wheels and shaking them shows no signs of play.

so with that said what I am now planning to do is jack up the front wheel and remove it, drop the steering linkage, attach my fishing scale to the hole where the linkage was just detached from, measure the resistance from lock to lock, and then if it is not in the range of 13 - 16 lbs (or 6 - 7.3 kg) I need to remove the upper pin and start adjusting shims (most likely just removing) and measure it again until the reading is in that range.

is this correct? any heads up suggestions?

 

how long do you think it usually takes before it needs to be redone?

 

To be honest, Tom's suggestion is best. While you are in there you really should replace the bearings and seals as they are most likely ready. But if you don't mind pulling the wheel and steering linkage twice then the temp fix may be fine.

And when you say "most likely remove"... yes.

more shims = raising Pin = reducing friction of mating faces = looser steering.

 

Really depends on how worn the swivel bearings are.

 

do you think I would be OK just getting a new upper pin bearing, a set of thrust washers and a shim pack and replacing those on each side then? I would only need to remove the pin and pull out the old bearing and washers to replace all that right? I don't mind spending a little money to save myself some hassle down the road, but I don't want to replace things that don't need to be replaced (like the pin). I understand that without seeing the items you can't tell me if it needs to be replaced, I am just trying to figure out how this was originally intended in the design (and I am hesitant to buy STC226 if the pin is "most likely fine"), the bearing is $2 (around $12 if I get the shim pack and the thrust washers with it), then there is the STC226 kit for $46, and lastly there is the full kit with seals and everything for $114, and from what I can tell the full kit requires tearing down the swivel ball and everything out from there to do the seals (which do not seem to be leaking). so what kit do you suggest I go with? PS my ABS is disabled (not sure if that makes a difference)