So I have recently started trying to get some of the 60k general maintenance tasks done on my 97 Disco (Just did brakes) and thought I would try to flush the T/case and put a new RTV gasket on the view panel since it leaked some. Poor thing's had a tough life and needs some TLC.
Printed of the Rave section on it, and searched here for tips. Got the wrench I needed...half inch driver for the fill plug, and made sure I got it off fist....
So I first took the drain plug out, saw some crap on it, realized it's magnetized and those were a few metal shavings.

1st question....obviously zero is the best, but if there are a few on that plug is that ok? I took a pic of what I got off it. It really doesn't bind or grind while driving but I wasn't sure how bad is "bad".

2nd, While using the half incher to get out the drain plug, I realized it was scraping that rubber hose from that goes from that drum thing (what is that?) to up in to the car. It made a small perforation. What does that hose do...and should i just replace it/leave it/tape it/curse at it?

3rd...and most problematic for me.....Lets say it's the "top right" 10mm nut on the outer case plate came out about halfway....then just started rounding. I got all the other bolts loosened, and it so close, but now....I really don't know what to do. I was using a closed box wrench, so I don't really have anything to put on that's "tighter". I don't think I could really drill it out, it's one of the ones behind the exhaust. I sprayed the crap out of it with WD-40 to hopefully loosen up by tomorrow. So I guess my question is....given where I'm at should I just try and close the plate back up and put the other bolts on? It wasn't really leaking bad considering the rest of the car, and I didn't actually break the gasket seal on it, just loosened bolts.
I could probably get some big **** vice grips on it, which would probably chew up the head though.
Any advice would be great. I appreciate it all.

Thanks




(those are pics, if they don't work right, let me know and I'll try and post them some other way)

 

Them are some pretty good sized chunks of metal. I dont worry when I see shavings that resemble something like salt-n-pepper size. If/when you get the plate off to re-seal, check the teeth of the gears and see if any are missing chunks. If you're lucky, they will be and there not pieces of bearing material.

The drum on the t-case is a drum brake, as in parking brake. If you did't wear through to the cable to the core, I would just put a couple wraps of electrical tape to help keep out moisture.

With the bolt, I personaly would put a set of vise grips on it and just get a new one to replace it.

 

So the cable to that drum has just a physical cable running thrugh it then right? Nothing came out when I thought it was perforated but that would explain why not.

Can I heat the bolts? Nothing down there will......catch on fire will it? (Grease or whatever). There was threadlocker blue on the view pan bolts so I thought if heated up it might help melt that a little and come out easier.

and say the metal is from the transfer case gears....I assume I woul hear grinding or binding (which I don't) at some point as they are failing so if its working now should I wrry about it? Or is that basically a sign of imminent doom?

 

You will always get metal filings whenever you drain the t-case, thats why the drain plug has a magnet.

 

You should be able to get that bolt out. There are a variety of tools for extracting damaged bolts. Vice grips may work ok. Also sears has a fairly decent extractor set that has helical "teeth" that are similar to a socket, the more you turn it the deeper it bites.

If you do try heat be careful not to damage other things. Also the longer a breaker bar or wrench you use, the more force you can develop. Use slow steady pulling force with as longt a lever arm as you can find.

PB Blaster works better than WD40 as a pentrant. Also Liquid Wrench has a good penetrating spray foam.