Long story short is I bought a 1995 disco 3.9 2 weeks ago top play with offroad but I found a sweet deal on a kitted out 1999 and put a down payment on it until I can get down to get it. Its a 1999 disco 1 with 4.0 and 190k
Here is what has been done to the truck- (all done by british 4x4 and serviced by british 4x4 in NC since 2003)
- Waterpump and thermostat replaced when truck hit 150Kmi
- Steering column replaced with brand new after market rebuild at ~150Kmi
- Steering gear box replaced with brand new after market rebuild @ ~150Kmi
- Power Steering pump replaced with brand new after market rebuild @ ~150Kmi
- New power steering hoses (zero leaks)
- All spark plugs replaced 30Kmi intervals
- Fuel filter replaced with new part ~170kmi
- All new brake pads/rotors front/back @ ~160Kmi
- Rears brake Calipers Rebuilt @ ~160Kmi
- Front right new aftermarket Caliper whole assembly
- Brake lines flushed every 30Kmi
- New coolant expansion tank ~145Kmi
- New radiator drain plug
- SRS airbag cassette replaced @ ~160Kmi
- Exhaust resonator removed and new exhaust pipe installed
- A four brand new engine shock mounts installed @ ~175Kmi
- New serpentine belt replaced every 40Kmi
- Wheel bearings replaced and repacked
- Replaced left rear window motor/regulator. However polarity is reversed on switch. Works just fine

The head gasket has never been done but owner swears truck does not overheat and would take it 30 miles into the bush without hesitation.

What else should I look for? I will test drive it with ac on full bast to watch temps..I will also be driving the truck home about 3 hours. I just want a reliable truck that will not leave me stranded..Im getting a great deal and trust what the owner is saying. I feel that most of the preventive maintenance has been done but I would like your opinions..how reliable is the 4.0 and what are common issues?

Thank you very much for your help guys...this also means my 2 week old 1995 disco will be for sale!

 

1. Observe the temps with a scanner. Gauge not so precise.

2. At those miles radiator is most likely sludged. You can eval radiator by warming up truck, measure temp on fins with it off top to bottom, if more than 10F spread sludge has begun. Lower rows block off first. New rad $700, or have rodded out for about $75. 180F thermostat is a good swap out ($10). There is no radiator drain plug, you may be talking about the plug on top (oem plastic cracks).

3. My D1 has about 183K, six owners, and is getting the second set of HGs....

4. Hard to see inside the valve covers due to baffles. But crusty burnt oil sludge is not uncommon. Lifter rods will be mushroomed as will lifters themselves. Valve train will have wear. A manual oil PSI test would be good.

5. I'd not plan on another 100K without head gaskets, main bearings, and more.

6. You have not mentioned oil type (Rotella is extra points) or drain intervals (5000 or less is extra points).

7. If spending more than a flat screen TV consider paying for an inspection by a mechanic, who does not have the hots for the vehicle. Plenty of D1 runners out there under $2K. Maybe not as pretty.

I say this as an owner, not trying to rain on your parade. We have a number of 200K+ Discos, but the 300K club must be very small.

 

More pix

Also, in our tech area we have a list of things to look for.

 

Thanks for the help
is there any way to clean the gunk from inside engine. Current owner has used mobil 1. I will switch to rotella. What weight do you reccomend? I know in my current 95 d1 15w40 rotella has been used

 

Unless you are in cold country the 15W40 is just fine. If engine is sludged, like mine, Rotella will reduce some of it, but the baked on stuff will remain. I've been running Rotella for two years, also have put in Marvel Mystery Oil, and BG flush product. Solvents can't reverse all the gunk. As an example, inside the valve covers, oil is pumped up one tower, moves down the rocker pipe, and is squirted out each rocker arm to the rod that presses on the lifters. So most of what you see is splash and spray lubrication.

If your owner ran Mobile 1 and changed fairly often your engine won't look as bad as mine.

 

Specifically which version of the Rotella oil is recommended? I see T1 thru T6. Also, I don't mean to hijack here, but what's so great about the Rotella as opposed to other brands?