2003 land rover disco - what to do first
#1
#3
Number one item.
* Stop driving it. Then, remove and replace the front prop shaft w/ a unit that has grease fittings.
This free advice could potentially save you 7k in repairs and a bitch of a headache. Welcome to the wonderful world of Land Rover.
* Stop driving it. Then, remove and replace the front prop shaft w/ a unit that has grease fittings.
This free advice could potentially save you 7k in repairs and a bitch of a headache. Welcome to the wonderful world of Land Rover.
Last edited by coors; 04-25-2013 at 03:12 PM.
#4
#5
#6
see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...estions-46975/ The jumbo filter, in Purolator/MANN, or WIX, or Baldwin gives extra oil capacity. Shell Rotella oil, 15W40. Change every 5000. The use of the diesel rated oil is to get extra cleaning formula. These engines have plenty of sludge building properties, like easy to clog PCV system seldom cleaned by previous owners. Pix of engine at 190K with Rotella use (switched from Castrol), good drain intervals; and one that maintained on a less strict schedule.
Download the RAVE shop and owner manual set.
Buy a scanner or Ultra Gauge. The heat gauge is factory programmed to point at 50% from 130-240F. Most people like to drive in 180-200F.
Consider a new thermostat, get the 180 soft spring version. The factory version (dark gray) has the edge over the lower priced Moto-rad, from a quality control standpoint.
Figure that previous owner, unless you have paperwork, rarely did any service to the vehicle, other than engine oil. So you could well have original coolant, differential and transfer case oils, transmission fluid, etc. Rovers are built to be serviced (other than front prop shaft, please grease evey oil change), but most early owners (or lease) don't grasp the value of this and treat it like any other disposable vehicle.
DIY work is quite normal, because many can't afford dealer rates that border on anesthesiologist rates.
Download the RAVE shop and owner manual set.
Buy a scanner or Ultra Gauge. The heat gauge is factory programmed to point at 50% from 130-240F. Most people like to drive in 180-200F.
Consider a new thermostat, get the 180 soft spring version. The factory version (dark gray) has the edge over the lower priced Moto-rad, from a quality control standpoint.
Figure that previous owner, unless you have paperwork, rarely did any service to the vehicle, other than engine oil. So you could well have original coolant, differential and transfer case oils, transmission fluid, etc. Rovers are built to be serviced (other than front prop shaft, please grease evey oil change), but most early owners (or lease) don't grasp the value of this and treat it like any other disposable vehicle.
DIY work is quite normal, because many can't afford dealer rates that border on anesthesiologist rates.
#7
The KN-3001 is correct. Mobil 1 filter# is M301. Those are the filters you want. Consider the Napa Gold 1515. All great filters. They all have a larger oil capacity than stock. That's what you want for these motors.
#8
BTW, if IMTIMBER is a nod to the wood business, I'm surrounded for miles in every direction with trees planted in straight rows, not by squirrels, but by land owners with a crop in mind for the future, providing wildlife space in the present. And in my state, we had this guy named Charles Herty. He was a chemistry professor, and invented the modern papermaking process. We have schools named for him, a research foundation, etc., here in Savannah. But in Athens, they have an old field named after him, where the Georgia played their first football game. He brought college football to Georgia, and was he the first coach. Since he was such a key figure in college football (the main sport in Georgia), and forest products; I feel he deserves a state holiday to honor him.
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