Cylinder 8 had the bad injector. When I put it back on the stand and took the oil pan off to get a look, everything looked normal... except the number 8 sleeve. It looked shiny on the thrust side. Since the cylinder had been honed and had cross hatching, I figure it will be back to the engine shop no matter what.

 

i understand the bad injector part, but why wasn't the un-burned gas push out the exhaust valve on the exhaust stroke, rather than filling the cylinder?

 

I dont think the engine ever turned at all, did it Charlie? He said in one of the posts that he accidentally used the wrong term and that it didn't actually hydrolock.

 

ok then

 

Well it was...in part. When it sounded funny and i shut it down, then tried to start it, I pulled the dipstick and it smelled like pure gasoline. When I drained the oil it looked like dirty gasoline (watery, smelled strongly of gas). Then when I walked around back there was gas dripping from the exhaust pipe and it smelled strongly of gas. So I'm not sure why it wouldn't have all been pushed out. But I am sure it was the injector because I swapped my old engine back in and used the same fuel rail and injectors (replacing that one) and have been driving it every day since then with no issues. When I first started up with the new engine the exhaust was a gasoline fog which lasted about five minutes

 

I must've misunderstood before. I thought the engine didn't turn over at all.

Huh.

 

No, sorry. Different engine. The new engine never turned over after I stopped it. I actually swapped the engine twice in a day...I'm that good (because I am that bad). The old engine is the one that turned over and blew the gas fog out of the cats. Same day different engine.

I have a loose airbag connection and two horsey abs lines. After fixing those this evening I'm returning to the new, seized engine to find some answers.

I still drive my rover every day, and work, so I'm a little slow to get to the recalcitrant, hated, new, seized engine.

 

It is raining today and I finally have everything in a reasonably clean garage so I decided to start the autopsy on my seized engine and I've found the culiprit, sort of. I flipped the engine over and looking very closely with a flashlight, the #8 connecting rod is bent. So much so I can now see it without a flashlight... very obvious. The others look fine. I still cannot rotate the crank.

Unfortunately the crank is in a position that I cannot loosen the conrod bolts to remove the piston and rod.

So just using redneck logic it seems that I am going to have to cut the conrod in order to get everything out. And that's not a pretty picture. Any other ideas?

 

Can you remove the rod next to it?
Will that give you enough clearance to rotate the crank?
Or it the rod bent in such and way it is hitting the counter weights?

 

The #8 rod is slightly bent. Not hitting anything. But the crank is turned in such a way that the piston is withdrawn to its maximum and I can't reach the back rod bolt.

I may not be following your suggestion. I think I can get the rod off next to it but I bet I am not getting much resistance from any but the #8 piston. I have tried turning the crank with all of my wight and a three foot bar so it is possible that I bent the rod myself. I have soaked the pistons in oil from top (spark plug holes) and bottom for some time. All of the other rods look fine to my eye.

I'm trying to assess the #8 cylinder. That was the one that got the gasoline wash from the bad injector. Unfortunately, I think if I remove all of the other con rods I am still not going to be able to turn the crank on #8.