So after trying to do the brakes on the cheap last time, and only replacing the pads and replacing only the drivers side caliper I have decided to do it right this time.. as the Rotors are kind of chewed up and I am getting noise from the side I replaced the caliper on.

I have a set of EBC pads and rotors on the way, and am going to replace both calipers, the drivers caliper is under warranty and as I am not sure if its the caliper sticking or not I am going to replace it again as well..

My question is about the "End Play" mentioned in the manual. Every time I have done wheel bearings before I have just sort of guessed at the amount of play that I should have.. I plan on dis-assembling the passenger side first (the side that doesnt squeak) and however much play I can feel with my spidey sense while dis-assembling I would try to match upon re-assembly..

I post this because, I should have done the whole brake job from the beginning and I didnt.. (someone smile and say "told you so") so I am looking for advice here, go find the appropriate tool.. or rely on my uncanny abllity to get it right. All my previous experiance is on 2 wheel drive vehicles not chunky 4x4 Landies..

 

I used to use a dial indicator for setting end float, but I've done so many Land Rover hubs over the years I just do it by feel now. The Disco has almost nothing for end float, the slightest detectable would be about right.
If you off-road switch to the RTC3511 hub seals, they are double lipped and seal better, especially stuff getting in the hubs.
Pull one front apart then do the rest. The front drive flange is the perfect tool for recessing the hub seal 4mm.
I'd replace your 4 flex lines at the same time.
If you're buying all new calipers I'd have suggested you go ahead and put on D90 fronts as they are larger pistons and pads.