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ABS Shuttle Valve

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  #11  
Old 11-05-2008, 06:27 PM
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Default RE: ABS Shuttle Valve

I am experiencing the three amigos intermittently (rarely now, but fear it will get worse). I have two faults "shuttle valve switch electrical failure" and "rear, right outlet valve has short to internal power supply". The mechanic is recommending a new modulator. He claims that replacing the shuttle valve is short term because the root cause is a leak in the modulator onto the shuttle valve sensor.

Are those who have replaced the shuttle valve only seeing the proble return?

Thanks
 
  #12  
Old 11-05-2008, 06:45 PM
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Default RE: ABS Shuttle Valve

From what I understand replacing the shuttle valve with the GOOD repair kit cures 90% of the shuttle valve problems.
Using the cheap kit is a temp fix.
The good kit replaces all of the internal parts.
 
  #13  
Old 11-05-2008, 07:03 PM
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Default RE: ABS Shuttle Valve

How can I make sure I get the right kit? Is it the shuttle valve kit $80 vs. the modulator valve kit $800? Or, are there different versions of each kit?

Thanks for the quick response.
 
  #14  
Old 11-05-2008, 07:12 PM
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Default RE: ABS Shuttle Valve

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/SWO500030G.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/SWO500040G.cfm
These are the two kits, as far as I know there are only the two.
 
  #15  
Old 11-05-2008, 07:27 PM
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Default RE: ABS Shuttle Valve

Thanks again!
 
  #16  
Old 11-06-2008, 09:40 AM
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Default RE: ABS Shuttle Valve

The first kit made available, the cheap one, had a terrible success rate in the low 20% range, the more expensive kit had much better results.
You can also go to, http://www.roverlandparts.com/absmodulators.aspx and get a good guaranteed used replacement for $795, which if mine were to fail I would buy.
 
  #17  
Old 11-06-2008, 10:49 AM
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Default RE: ABS Shuttle Valve

Great information.

It looks like the part you reference is a complete ABS Modulator not a repair kit for the same price as the repair kit Spike555 referenced. I am guessing it is rebuilt. I think for the same price that is the way to go.

I have read in other forums that after replacing the parts and bleeding the brakes (myself), I still need to take the truck in to have the fault codes cleared. Is that really necessary? Is it to confirm the repairs worked?Unless it will result in future problems, I do not mind fault codes in the history. I also saw a reference with a link to a "RAVE" manual that I think I need, but can't find it now.Does anybody have the link?

Thanks
 
  #18  
Old 11-06-2008, 01:06 PM
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