You are trying to bypass the interior fuse block, first. Initial attempt shouldn't involve raising the hood to deal with the fuselinks. You disconnect the connectors from the interior fuse block separate the power in wire from the connector (have a spade connector attached), then separate the power out wire (going to blower from interior fuses). Reconnect the block connectors to the interior fuse block (with the power wires for fuse 7 still removed). Then in the same space of the interior fuse block, place an inline 30 amp fuse inline with the two power wires supplying power to the blower, then check if it works.

In my case, it still didn't work. That's when you supply a direct wire from the fuselinks to the new inline fuse (bypassing the original brown/pink wire entirety). Test blower at wide open as that bypasses the resistor pack and is direct to the blower. If still not working, take a close look at the blower connector for burn damage.

 

Update...I think I had two issues going on. First, I bypassed fuse 7 by pulling the brown/red wire out of the wire connector, attaching an inline 30amp fuse, and splicing into another wire from that connector that was getting power with key on. I got the blower to work again, but still only on high. Turns out the new resistor module I installed was bad out of the box. I purchased another one and bing, AC works on auto and all fan settings.

Now, just last night the wife couldn't get the key to turn off all the way or get it out of the lock cylinder. I disconnected the battery and the lock cylinder turned off and key came out. Hook up battery and the same thing happens. Just ordered a new lock cylinder.