Don't really worry about the split now....just the waterfall noise is driving me crazy!
Also I was under the impression that the whole point of raising the reservoir for bleeding purposes is for the purpose of making the bleeding screw the lower point, am I missing anything?

 

With bleed in current position, you raise reservoir, open petcock, the coolant will take the path of least resistance and flow out of the bleed. Coolant will not flow back through the small hole in thermostat into the engine where it needs to go to displace the air. The design of original system allowed the block and radiator to slowly fill while allowing air to escape from the highest point in the system. Once coolant bled out of bleeder screw you were relatively assured the system was full and any remaining air would make it's way back out through the reservoir. The bleeder screw is meant to bleed coolant not air. Unfortunately putting an inline stat in the system will hinder the flow of coolant to either the radiator or engine during the initial fill and increase the chances of air in the system. Inline stat should have a radiator fill cap as the D1 to service system properly.
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just got the glowshift gauge in the mail today. was reading threw the instructions and it talks about T connection ( which i got the 32mm one) or a plug on the block. so now im thinking it would be pretty easy to get the sensor threaded in place of driver side drain plug. is this what the instructions are referring to? or is there another "coolant fluid port" on the block i don't know about? instructions also says the coolant port needs to be threaded in 1/8 NPT. is the drain plug that thread?

 

If it fits yes. Had my drain plugs out a couple of times doing drains/flushes and they are small NPTs. That's a great idea, might be a good location but looking at the GlowShift install pdf and video the temp probe may be too long. It might hit the inner wall of the block before you could get the threads tight?

You could give it a try and it would be a very good option for others to know about if it works. Unless you hear otherwise doubt few if any have tried before as adverse folks seem to be to removing the plugs during normal drain/flush.
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when i looked at the glowshift sensor, i was wondering the same thing number9.

ill just stick to installing it on the upper hose for now to reduce the loss of coolant while doing the install. next time i go to drain the block ill test out and see if the sensor goes in fine without hitting anything.

the rep from glowshift told me that the OEM sensor with the two wires coming off it will not work on the glowshift water temp gauge. i guess different resistance readings.