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Amigos fixed.... Now back!? Wtf

Old May 15, 2015 | 06:10 AM
  #11  
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Hey, I just remembered something that could be a cheap and free fix for you.

Josh Salas, who did the work to come up with the Option B bypass solution, had it fail for him too some time around a year after the bypass was done, IIRC.

In his case, it was simply that the grounding connection for the bypass wire had failed. He simply removed the ground, cleaned it, and reinstalled it. That solved his problem. Josh documented that in a follow-up or addendum to his original write up.
 
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Old May 15, 2015 | 08:11 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by mln01
Hey, I just remembered something that could be a cheap and free fix for you.

Josh Salas, who did the work to come up with the Option B bypass solution, had it fail for him too some time around a year after the bypass was done, IIRC.

In his case, it was simply that the grounding connection for the bypass wire had failed. He simply removed the ground, cleaned it, and reinstalled it. That solved his problem. Josh documented that in a follow-up or addendum to his original write up.
I will look in to that, thanks!
 
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Old May 15, 2015 | 05:08 PM
  #13  
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The problem lies in the shuttle valve electrics AND the shuttle valve seals also. The ABS wheel sensors give out sometimes but not so often.
 
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Old May 16, 2015 | 01:12 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by mln01
There is so much misinformation floating around about the Three Amigos and their cures.

First of all, the electrical circuit board defect corrected by the Option B bypass is only one of several problems that will result in the Three Amigos being lit. It may be that the Option B bypass failed, or it may be a wheel speed sensor or other component. The only way to know for sure is to get the ABS codes read. There was another thread on the forum in the last week or two talking about a relatively inexpensive ($140) scanner available somewhere online that will read and not only engine management codes but ABS and SRS codes also.

Second, it is NOT always necessary to replace the shuttle valves which is for the shuttle valve seals to cure an SVS fault. I did mine over four years ago following Josh's Option B instructions to the letter. The switch in my truck tested with correct continuity and resistance, and there was absolutely no evidence of brake fluid having leaked past the seals. I put all the original parts back in place after doing the bypass and all is well still four years later. I understand the argument that you "may as well" replace the switch is in the seals while you have everything torn apart but I am by nature a cheapskate and I figured that if a problem emerges with the switches or the seals later it will cost me only a couple of hours of repeat labor whereas replacing the switch and the seals would've cost me probably a couple of hundred dollars in cash at the time.

And finally, on Josh's behalf we should all take great offense to the suggestion that his Option B bypass is some kind of a botch or hack job. It is an absolutely and completely valid bypass of the faulty circuit board internal to the modulator. It preserves complete ABS function (restores it, actually). It is a hack only in that it allows an owner to avoid replacing the modulator with another one that could easily fail in the same way due to an inadequate design.
Is this post everyone is referring to in the stickies or do I just have to google it?
 
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Old May 16, 2015 | 01:39 PM
  #15  
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Yes it's a sticky but the original hosting went unpaid while Josh was gone a couple of years or so. It's somehow rehosted elsewhere. The good link (for now) is in a post on what's today the last page of the sticky. All this is above my pay grade, but in any case the current link appears below. It's instructive to read the whole thing but THE OPTION B HOLY GRAIL APPEARS IN STEPS 37-45, as specified.

ABS Mod - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I.
 
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