I've read about this over on a few diesel forums, and a number of people swear by this as one of the most gentle and effective ways to flush your cooling system.

Has anybody ever tried this with their D2? I'm going to be replacing my radiator and putting in a Motorad 439-180 thermostat tomorrow and want to clean out the junk first. Not sure if the typical Prestone flush stuff is what I want to use.

See below:

My coolant flush. Different from the norm. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 

When I was a tech at an International Dealer we used Cascade. Same at John Deere and Freightliner. Never had an issue.

 

How many miles on your engine, are you having a cooling issue, have you ever replaced your t/stat?
Our radiators don't clean out, even the radiator shops, if they are honest will tell you to replace the radiator after 100,000 cause they are too plugged and the plastic is too brittle to handle them.

 

Hi Mike,

70K miles on my '03 Disco II, and I'm actually going to replace both the radiator and put in the Motorad 180 degree stat tomorrow. Figured I'd try and flush any junk out as well while I'm draining the system.

Thanks!

 

Do all that flush out before you put in the new stat.

 

Lots of stories about chemicals to use to clean coolant systems and heater cores. Cascade is always on the list it seems, but concerns about the powder crystals getting stuck in the heater core seem valid. The Audi dealer uses liquid drano followed by a series of flushes. I have a neighbor who has used fantastic and also simple green in a jeep and Tahoe with great success.
Not sure what to believe, except that clean coolant is better than dirty.
Do the LR trucks require g12 pink coolant? The local valvoline shop said they use a generic coolant thAt is compatible in their flushing machines.

 

Use any green coolant and you will be fine, might also want to replace the coolant cap, they failing when using Dexcool.

 

While my D1 is fine, I decided to try both the white vinegar (put in a gallon and drove for 500 miles) flushed and refilled, and today the Cascade (liquid) flush (drained coolant, added Cascade and distilled water, drove 30 miles and idled for an hour). Reverse flush after Cascade brought out pieces of brown flakes about for 1/4 to 3/8 inch square. That material dries to a light brown chalk, I take it to be left over Stopz Da Leekz from a perverted previous owner.

I did this experiment on my 93 Mercedes 300CE convertible (mid life crisis), that has an aluminum two row rad with plastic tanks. But when I looked down inside the return hose fitting, I could see the ends of the coolant tubes and there was still calcium and crud build up on them, so I'll be buying a new rad. Shade tree chemists can't reverse 20 years of buildup with a few bottles of elixer. I would suspect if you had something strong enough to do the job, it would eat up something else before "fixing" the problem.

But as for routine maintenance, to prevent gunk, do it early and often.