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Going from memory I think you did it wrong (if your pic is an indiction) according to the ARP instructions, I believe you are just supposed to snug the studs in to the block and then put the heads on and then cleaned bolts/washers, and some grease somewhere in there, and then torque per specs.
Going from memory I think you did it wrong (if your pic is an indiction) according to the ARP instructions, I believe you are just supposed to snug the studs in to the block and then put the heads on and then cleaned bolts/washers, and some grease somewhere in there, and then torque per specs.
Yes, the studs were just snug - not tight. The threads pulled as I was tightening the nuts with the heads on at the last increment - 70 ft/lbs. Did use the ARP lube.
Just used ARP studs on my 95 D1 4.6L. Used an allen and put the studs in till they stopped, Made sure heads were clean where washers sit, used ARP lube, and did 20/50/75. Darn specs list 70/80 so I went in the middle. No issues and I did the job 2 times. First on 3.9L when I thought it was just HG & second time when we slapped in a GEMS 4.6L vs the 3.9L with a cracked block.
Now I’ve got to figure out how to get this damned thing fixed. Thinking about doing some type of threaded insert for all the holes. Last thing I’d want is to fix the 2 that pulled just to have another one pull, then another…
Any recommendations from someone who has done this in the past?
Timeserts or Helicoil are stronger than original threads when done properly, my concern woyld be block stress, which cylinder? You may want to hot pressure test after correcting. Honestly with your investment in that block I would send the entire assembly to your machine shop and have them do it.
I got an almost free p38 a few years ago because the owner had that same issue during the headgasket job and I used the time sert kit with success. Would also recommend having a machine shop do the work because it took hours by hand.
That sucks. Block threads were probably already damaged before you got in there. When I put in my ARP studs, I hand tighten them w/allen wrench until they bottom out, then back off 1/2-3/4 turn. I do not leave them bottomed out, and no lube on the block side of the studs at all. ARP lube for head side of studs as recommended....
agree with above. Your block will be fine with coils, but have a machine shop do them. unless you have a way to tap dead on...and i would suggest a taper tap to start, and then switch to a blind tap. Also, driving in the coils can be a real pain if they bind half way in.....
Blind Full Torque threaded inserts. I like the blind aspect of them seeing as I’m close to water jackets. Wish I had kept my old block to drill through the holes and see how much metal is under the holes.
ARP studs pulled my threads
