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bcm bcu replacement.

Old Dec 17, 2015 | 05:59 PM
  #11  
toofaroffroad's Avatar
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bump.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2015 | 08:32 PM
  #12  
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I don't have a nanocom, I have an autologic and it always works, its just a learn security code.

How many miles are on your rover? I might have a matching set I can sell you( I only have SAI sets available).
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 05:17 PM
  #13  
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So BCU is not a plug and play part?
Drivers door actuator locks but doesnt unlock on my dII so I was planing to order another BCU right now(i didnt even know tis pieces existence til few minutes ago ). I tried 3 actuators and non of em unlocks so I cant think of anything else other than BCU
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 09:01 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by hokkabaz
So BCU is not a plug and play part?
Drivers door actuator locks but doesnt unlock on my dII so I was planing to order another BCU right now(i didnt even know tis pieces existence til few minutes ago ). I tried 3 actuators and non of em unlocks so I cant think of anything else other than BCU
Could be your interior fuse box and its plug and play.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 09:40 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by abran
Could be your interior fuse box and its plug and play.
Thank you!!!!
Is there a way to understand if it is the fuse box or bcu?
i read it on few posts that the interior fuse box sometimes gets wet and it causes all the problems?
I was also thinking to open the passanger door, make a Y to the actuator plug and connect the drivers door actuator cables to there also. So basically whenever the passanger door unlocks or locks, drivers door will get the same signal. But i feel like it will be a difficult task to run a new set of wire from inside the cabin
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 10:27 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by hokkabaz
Thank you!!!!
Is there a way to understand if it is the fuse box or bcu?
i read it on few posts that the interior fuse box sometimes gets wet and it causes all the problems?
I was also thinking to open the passanger door, make a Y to the actuator plug and connect the drivers door actuator cables to there also. So basically whenever the passanger door unlocks or locks, drivers door will get the same signal. But i feel like it will be a difficult task to run a new set of wire from inside the cabin
Not that I know of.

I would stay away from custom wiring jobs,
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 12:21 AM
  #17  
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Default Dry OUT

i read it on few posts that the interior fuse box sometimes gets wet and it causes all the problems?
Dry out if suspect, remove fuses/relays and inspect for corrosion.

Suggest you refrain from using "Turkish redneck repair" procedures you dream up in the future. You successfully running wires doubtful after reading your previous posts. Wish you luck ant the best.

......
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 12:35 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by abran
Not that I know of.

I would stay away from custom wiring jobs,
Good advice.

i read it on few posts that the interior fuse box sometimes gets wet and it causes all the problems?
Dry out if suspect, remove fuses/relays and inspect for corrosion. (Caution: Do not use open flames during drying.)

Suggest refraining from using "Turkish redneck repair" procedures you dream up. Your success of running wires doubtful after reading your previous posts. Wish you luck and the best.

......
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 12:41 PM
  #19  
toofaroffroad's Avatar
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did your door actuator ever work? I know on the nanocom tool there are lots of programming features that I didn't know could be adjusted. I'm wondering if it's something that just needs to be reset with a proper D2 programming tool.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 01:52 PM
  #20  
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I just fixed it, without replacing/cleaning anything! thank you for all the help
Actually i didnt fix it, I just pulled another Turkish redneck weapon lol
i will post pics in few hours, yall will laugh!!
 
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