First off, I want to say thank you to the forum for all the help I have received regarding other issues.

Both my front and rear blowers recently quit working and after some quick searches on this forum I found out that I had the dreaded 6 and 7 fuse problem on the interior fuse box. So, I ran an inline bypass and can now get air from the front vents...progress...woohoo

I now have 2 other small issues with the heat/ac system.
a) the rear system still does not work on any speed (yes, the button is on and is lit up when trying it...my wife already asked me that)
b) only one rate of slow (ie speed) comes out of the front vents no matter what blower speed (1,2,3,4) I put it on.

Can this be a resistor problem? I read that if the resistor is out, you will only have 1 speed (high) b/c when on high, it will bypass the resistor. However, I am getting air on all speeds, just at a single rate (and the rate is high). I am not exactly containing b/c I would rather have the air on high than low, but, it would be nice for it to be back in correct working form. Also, I have no idea what to do about the back system.

Thank you all for your help.
Josh

 

Being a D2, you have a front variable speed AC blower:

From RAVE:


power transistor

So transistor could be damaged. See photo attached from RAVE.


For the back, there is a fuse in the resistor pack, see attached photo, it is connecter C0425.

RAVE is higher resolution if you download your own copy. Little numbers by conectors tell you which connector to look up in electrical library to get photo location and pin outs.

 

Thank you

I found the transistor located to the left of the blower and removed it. I checked the continuity of the contacts and one of them does not have continuity while the other does. So, I am going to order a new transistor and hopefully that will fix the fan speed issues.

The other problem is that I cannot find the resistor pack. I have looked at the picture you sent me and cannot find that part nor can I find those 3 wires. The only thing I can find in that area on the right of the blower is the "servo." Oddly, I had purchased the 1999-2003 MY Workshop manual and it doesnt talk about a transistor and it indicates that the resistor is the transistor (at least in location and look)? Is it possible, that even though my disco is a 2000, it was built in 1999 and therefore, it is closer in design regarding the blower to the 1999 model?

Also, after removing the transistor, I took it apart and it did not have a fuse in it. This makes me think that there still has to be a resistor somewhere as the RAVE manual shows the 40amp fuse inside it

Thank you

 

Here is a different pix of the rear resistor pack and fuse location.

 

Ok, I got the rear panel pulled off (enough at least) and removed the resistor.

I was thinking I would just be able to check the fuse, but unfortunately, the wires go into some sort of white casing/molding that cannot be removed easily without breaking (I believe). On the bottom, it appears that I could pry it open with a flat head screwdriver, but not sure if that is something that would go back together. Maybe just some glue? or does it really matter if it is not sealed anymore?

Second part. I checked the continuity of the resistor and it had continuity. I then tried checking power and continuity of various other spots. Below maybe a better way to explain.

1. Continuity at resistor
2. Continuity at blower motor
3. No power at blower motor (either wire) with rear a/c on high
4. No power to wires going to resistor (3 of them) with rear a/c on high
5. Continuity at black wire on connector that connects the 4 wires to the resistor

Question: I think I found what I had done wrong after reviewing the wiring diagram. When I installed my inline bypass, I only installed a single 30amp inline bypass connecting the brown/red wire to the brown/pink wire. With further review, it appears that I should have also installed a 2nd inline fuse (25amp) connecting the yellow/green wire to the brown/pink too.

So, It appears that I need to go back to the interior fuse box and install another bypass, but please verify I am doing this correct. After it is done, I should have the following

1) 30amp bypass connecting brown/red to the brown/pink
2) 25mp bypass connecting yellow/green to the same brown/pink
Therefore, I will have 2 bypasses connecting to the same brown/pink wire

Thank you once again

 

Did you ever resolve your problem? My rear air is not working either and jm trying to get to the bottom of it was wondering if a fusein the resistor worked?

 

Yes, you need a separate 25 amp bypass for the rear a/c. The y/g wire on connector 585 runs from fuse 6 in the interior fuseblock to the rear blower. Pull the wire as described in my bypass fix write-up and attach 12volt power with 25 amp inline fuse. The power into the interior fuseblock for fuses 6 & 7 is the b/p wire (it splits mid harness from the engine bay fuseblock into a wire of the same color for each fuse).