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Brake caliper bolts seized up

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  #21  
Old 04-09-2017, 07:45 PM
mudpuppy229's Avatar
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maybe put a dab of anti seize on them when you put them back in? just make sure they are tight lol. I'd think just near the ends would be sufficient to make it easier.
 
  #22  
Old 04-11-2017, 04:26 AM
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When you do get the caliper bolts out, probably a good time to replace them. They are probably as old as the truck itself and if your having that much of a hard time removing the caliper bolts... Its probably because the brakes have not been serviced in quit awhile

First time I did a brake job on my D2 back in 2012, I had similar issue. Replaced the bolts with new bolts and have never had a problem since. New England truck. I do my brakes twice per year. No anti-seize needed. Good luck.

PS: The only time Ive seen a tool break or warp like that is when your loosening the bolt in the wrong direction... ... ...
 

Last edited by TRIARII; 04-11-2017 at 04:29 AM.
  #23  
Old 04-11-2017, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by caymandrew
Thanks man. I tried the rubber mallet to no avail. But I finally figured it out. If anyone else is stuck on the bolts, 1/2 socket, connect the rover tir iron extension bar, and finally connect a four way tire iron. If with over three feet of leverage it took some force to break these suckers lose:


I always use a 12 point heavy duty deep impact socket on a 2' breaker bar with an extension tube after soaking the bolts in penetrating oil for a couple of days. Don't use ordinary sockets as they will often break open. Sometimes you might need to heat the bolt head to extend it just a few thousands before trying to undo it. These disc carrier bolts are always a PITA to release.

https://www.google.fr/search?q=disco...hrome&ie=UTF-8
 
  #24  
Old 03-17-2023, 01:07 PM
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Default What worked for me ...

Front caliper bolts heads are 19mm, 12point. Don't mess around. You don't want to damage the bolts -- they are expensive. As mentioned, they need to be very strong given the weight of the truck. Accept no substitutes.

--Ballpeen hammer
--Box end 19mm wrench -- mine is an offset and it worked great
--MAPI torch or equivalent
--Courage

After securing the ABS sensor wire away from heat source, heat the hub just below the bolt head
Apply wrench making sure it is 90 degrees to bolt so you get an even, full bite
Rap the end of the wrench with the hammer while staring at the bolt with determination -- it will come off.

Re-torque to spec per RAVE etc. with strategically applied Antiseize so that next time around it's not a fire drill.
These fasteners are important re safety and not the easiest to work with esp. in the field. Patience and proper tools.

Hope this helps someone

2cents... You can say 12point bolts are annoying as I once did in my ignorance, then you realize they allow a wrench to be applied in a much more precise way which is useful in tight spaces. 12 different positions vs. 6 ... more positions = more opportunities to get the wrench situated properly for the application. They just require a bit of planning and resist caveman methods. I know, I've tried them all. One learns.

Thanks to all of you for your generous help and time.

2004 Discovery 2 SE -- "Brutus"

 
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